Monday, July 1, 2019

ARUNACHALA RAMANA - Achalam to Arpanam – A Silent journey towards Self (Six days and six nights of solitude and peace)


Achalam to Arpanam – A Silent journey towards Self
(Six days and six nights of solitude and peace)

a.     I was aspiring for a long time to be away from the hustle and bustle of LIFE for uplifting my low spirits and regain some good health.  Initially I thought of going for a rejuvenation camp at Ujire – Naturopathy hospital; later decided that the mind is the one which require more of attention than body. This made me search for an opening.  My next thought was to join a third Vipassana course for full ten days and I started scouting for good centers.  Dharmashala was very inspiring and another center in Sikkim attracted me.  But the cost and time effectiveness was an issue.  When I saw that there is an active Center near Tiruvannamalai, I decided that this is THE place which I was longing for quite some time. I had planned a family visit to this divine place blessed with the presence of Shri Ramana Maharshi and could not make it for long.  During a recent visit to Bangalore, Veenu bought a book written by Arthur Osborne – Teachings of Ramana Maharshi and this actually kindled my silent quest with life. 

b.     The very purpose of visit to Ramanashramam was to get the required equilibrium in the presence of Master of Silence and to continue with the practice of Vipassana at Dhamma Arunachala. One good old friend came very handy to get an accommodation at Ramanasramam and the name of the Guest house was “ACHALAM”.  During our last visit (more than 12 years ago) we could not stay in the Ashram and were very disappointed.  It also occurred to me that Chinmaya would love this place and made him join me for this journey. Time was a serious constraint with two Charges to handle.  The moment I could finish an urgent work at Office, booked early morning flight to Bangalore to save time and took a bus to Tiruvannamalai.  I was worried about Chinmaya getting bugged with journey and my plans of not planning anything did not happen !!!  This was deliberately planned to be one aspect in developing acceptance to the circumstances making ourselves stronger.   But I had to restrain myself to give this experience to Chinmaya.

c.     We landed at Ashram at around 4.30 pm and to our great disappointment the request for stay was denied.  After much persuasion and talk, we were allowed to stay.  As per Ashram rules, one should send a mail and after getting a confirmation only we are allowed to stay.  This is to avoid tourists, visitors and not so serious devotees from thronging and disturbing the serenity of Ashram.  Moreover, there was also a serious water crisis in Tamilnadu.  We immediately went to Achalam and get ourselves ready for a visit of Ashram as the time was very less.  We took a list of activities and scrupulously followed.  The first thing which attracted is Veda parayana by cute little boys in the Gurukul.  
We had a short talk with Shri Srinivasa Murthy, an erstwhile Doctor from Bangalore and presently a permanent resident of Ashram and in charge of stay.  He could give a glimpse of the teachings and life story of Sri Ramana Maharshi and also present activities of Ashram.  It was fascinating to listen to his composed voice about the teachings of Ramana and his life story.  Our journey towards Self had begun with a little conversation with this nice gentleman.
d.     I had already started reading a book written by Arthur Osborne – Teachings of Ramana Maharshi and I found that the teaching is entirely based on Advaitha, which was quite close to my heart. The direct method of Self enquiry taught by the Maharshi was a mesmerizing thought and I got deeply immersed into it.  This was also a triggering point to visit Ramanashramam. I had to postpone my solitary internal journey as I had an obligation to take care of Chinmaya.  End of the day we were so hungry and had to retreat to the benches of Lunch hall.  After eating to the brim, again it was paining to walk back to the guest house.  When we were hungry there was pain-ache, and when we loaded our stomach, there was again pain.  I told Chinmaya that as per Adi Sankara, hunger is a disease and the food is its medicine !!  The context with which it was told could not be elaborated as we were also sleepy after a long journey.

e.     Next day early morning our quest continued to test physical stamina as we undertook “Girivalam” literally meaning “Giri Pradakshina” – a walk around the sacred hill “Arunachala” which is about 14 kms.  Started at around 4 a.m. and Chinmaya did not really like it due to sprained ankle.  We stopped several times and I was trying to encourage him that it is a test of stamina and many devotees were doing rounds.  Due to his injured angle joints, he got exhausted after about 10 kms and I saw no further point in continuing.  Took an auto and went to Arunachaleshwara Temple – one of the largest Shivan – temples in South India. 
This temple is known to be Agni Lingam and we actually experienced the heat inside sanctum sanctorum. It was just like entering an Oven and heat penetrating from all sides at 360 degrees.  It was fascinating to see so much heat generated only at this place and we enjoyed morning serene Darshan of Lord Shiva.  By this time, it was time for breakfast and before that we had to visit his better half which we did quickly.  After coming out, we had temple prasadam – Puliyogere, Sakra Pongal and there was no need for any other breakfast.

f.     This is a very ancient and sacred temple where Ramana Maharshi came in his younger days from Madurai.  It’s a huge temple with four entrances with the majestic background of Arunachala hills.  Ramana renounced everything in the pond and became a saint in this holy place.  It is said that he sold his ear rings and took a train and later walked upto Arunachala only to contemplate on SELF.  As an young boy, he had a near death experience and got self-realized in the intensity of his experience.   His teachings were mostly based on noble SILENCE and many foreign devotees carried his message across the country.  His diect method of Self enquiry based in Silence was the precursor to my next part of the program at Dhamma Arunachala. I may be too small and beginner to write about his teachings and can only boast that we took our life turning decision in Ramana Ashram in Bangalore.  (This is where myself and Veenu took an instant decision to get married!! It all started here.)

g.     Back in Ashram, we meticulously planned to attend all the daily activities and attended one by one.  Ashram has a definite schedule from 4.00 am in the morning till 9 pm.  They follow strictly all the programs and we couldn’t miss any.  It includes chanting of Vedas twice a day, Puja followed by Narayana Seva (poor feeding)  reading from the teachings of Ramana, Tamil Parayana and selected Sanskrit Compositions of Adi Shankara.  There’s an Ashram Gurukul where they teach Krishna Yajurveda to young lads. There will be a sumptuous lunch at 11.30 sharp and only Ashram invitees and residents are allowed to take food.  Chinmaya was fully satisfied with the variety and quality of food served and again stomach got filled up till the brim which made us sleep for more than an hour in the guest house.

h.     We came back to Ashram to climb the hill which involves about 1.4 kms trek uphill to reach Skandashram and climbing down to Virupaksha Cave.  Earlier days, we used to visit a number of caves in the deep forest area which is now prohibited by the Department.  This is where Ramana stayed for more than 17 years and occasionally used to visit Ashram when his mother insisted to come and see him here.  It was an interesting story that one sage from Karnataka named Virupaksha came here more than 400 years ago and the villagers were taking care of him on the hill side cave.  They bring food every day and have darshan of this saintly man.  One day  he said not to come for a day and next day when they visited, it was only a heap of ashes in the cave and the man has disappeared.  It is believed that he left his body in the form of ashes and there is a mound in the cave where Ramana meditated for long.

i.      It’s now time to explore Ashram book depot where we could get food for thought.  The atmosphere in Ashram is so serene and peaceful that we could see a number of peacocks walking along with us within Ashram premises.  It was photography time and they were posing well to the DSLR.   Chinmaya had never seen such a calm and peaceful place and he thoroughly enjoyed its serenity and tranquility.  Surprisingly, when we sat for a while in meditation hall, time flicked away like anything.  He thought that it is about 10 minutes and it was actually more than 35 minutes.  It was an amazing experience just to be in this place doing nothing visibly, but it greatly enhanced our energies and mental composure.

j.      With peaceful and pleasant memories, Chinmaya left alone to Bangalore and I continued my solo journey to a place called Perumbakkam (10 kms from Tiruvannamalai) to reach Dhamma Arunachala, an organic Vipassana Center.  Co incidentally the cottages were beautifully named as Achalam, Anuttaram, Anantham and finally “Arpanam” where I stayed in solitary confinement for three full days.  This is where theory followed with practice of Silence.  When I was reading the Book mentioned earlier, I could find references to other practical methods of self-realization which included a practice of observing breath as a means to contemplate Self, as explained by Maharshi.  There was a direct link with this method and the teachings of Buddha which came in the form of Vipassana as a tool to eradicate deep rooted Sankharas (habit patterns) to purify the mind.  The teachings focused on a method of observing the sensations caused by the defilement's of mind and allowing them to evolve and evaporate as we keep observing with a Sakshi bhaav (witness-state).

k.     For the next three days, it was noble SILENCE which gave us company along with organic food (Red rice, mint tea, totally unpolished cereals used for preparing food).  The entire structure is mostly made up of mud and bricks made locally, and of course Mangalore tiles used for roof.  There was also Pagoda halls for serious meditators in the background of Arunachala hills.  A complete plan of rainwater harvesting and no wastage is allowed.  We are not allowed to use detergents and the likes to spoil the environs.  The place was very windy and hot but natural atmosphere without any disturbance from outside world, except honking of a bus at a gap of every one hour.

l.      Experiences of a short course in Vipassana only enhanced my understanding of human nature and my own Self.  It used to be around 13 hours of meditation in a day with complete silence.  It was a refreshing observation of the Self for three days, including my own low back pain which kept on bothering me throughout the sitting.   Of course, it also helped me to observe some deep-rooted defilement's coming to the surface and passing away.  Nothing stays for eternity and the principle of “Anicha” (a Pali word for impermanence) got deep rooted in the mind.  Back to Bangalore, I could read some more teachings of Maharishi and they just Silenced my mind without further doubts and queries.  This all looked like a new beginning and we came back Home with bodies energized and mind refreshed with Silence. 

m.    It is said that solitude is an attitude of mind and the real silence is in achieving a still mind. A detached man is therefore, always in solitude and he need not be running away from the hustle and bustle of LIFE.  As per the teachings of Maharishi, the abstract knowledge is transmitted through EGO in the form of thoughts and words.  Words are the great grandsons of this original source and if words can produce an effect of this proportion, how much more powerful preaching through silence might be.  The inner silence is self-surrender and means living without the sense of Ego.  Silence is said to be perennial and speech is only an interruption.  All these gems of thoughts got correlated in deep contemplation and we returned ourselves to Home. These words are not exactly mine and liberally picked up from the teachings of Ramana Maharshi.  To look deeply into the eyes of Ramana itself gives us a sense of silent introspection and a re-assurance that we all can remain in long lasting eternal peace through silencing the mind and making a self-enquiry as to WHO AM I???, which is the very essence of teaching of Ramana Maharshi.



Sunday, June 23, 2019

Phuentsholling to Darjeeling - A travellogue


P-Ling to D-Ling  &  Tiger Nest to Tiger Hill  -
(a Long family sojourn for 9 Days and 8 Nights)
          This is in continuation of a few travelogues on account of journeys initiated by my bro-Kitty, an avid trekker, traveler and explorer of places.  At his behest we could do Amarnath Yatra, Venkatachalam trek and a few more local treks.  As usual he is the one who made us think about a long family program to North-east.  This time we got lucky to see North eastern part of Himalayas and planned to visit the land of wellness measured high by Happiness Index.   You must have guessed right. It is Bhutan a tiny nation surrounded by China, Nepal and India. Unlike earlier times, I could not immediately write about this trip and due to lapse of time, I might have missed the details, but the happy impressions which we carry in our minds stay for longer till we re-visit this place in a different season.   Hence this travelogue would definitely find a revised version in the years to come.  We all eagerly wait for another round in this Constitutional monarchy and THE LAND OF SERENITY.
          A brief intro to the place:
The Kingdom of Bhutan is located in the eastern Himalayas land locked between India and China.  A tiny nation with an area of just over 38000 sq. kms and population of over 6 lakhs but able to give a powerful message to the world.   Popularly known as Land of Thuder Dragon and often referred as The Last Shangri-La.  Though a small country by size and population, blessed with the most spectacular physical beauty with wide range of flora and fauna.  It is a well-insulated and protected land, where Vajrayana Buddhism took roots in 8th century and continues to play a major role in its present-day administration.  A nation highly claimed to have balanced material and spiritual development and blessed to have a Visionary King  Jigme Singye Wangchuk who came up with this beautiful concept.  The Gross National Happiness (GNH) which became the official development philosophy of Bhutan combining four pillars of GNH being Economic development, good governance, environmental conservation and preservation & promotion of culture.  Religion and governance go hand in hand keeping this objective in view.  We were in for a peaceful retreat in this great but tiny Himalayan nation. 
The family sojourn began on 13th May and the daily narrative goes on…..
Day 01:  
a)     With full of excitement of a long LTC  (looked like Long Travel Concession !!) we embarked upon from Mangalore at around 5.30 am and reached Bangalore Airport.  We had roughly two hours time left for the next flight and I had carefully planned for web check-in with specific seats for all the four.  In spite of small delay we arrived at Bagdogra Airport at around 3.30 pm.  We were greeted by one Dileep who was to take us to Phuentsholling (298 mtrs / 977 fts) the gate-way to Land of happiness which looked like gateway to heavens.


b)    It was a 4.5 hour plain drive covering for about 165 kms and we scraped through narrow roads of WB and enjoyed seeing plantations on the plan lands for the first time.  Our imagination about plantations on the hilly regions fell through when we saw many plantations on the roadside.  The road was running parallel to river Teestha and crossing over in a few places on the way, we reached Phuentsholling around 8.30 pm.  We couldn’t resist after noticing a small temple surrounded by a little garden like place, just opposite the Hotel we stayed (Hotel Damchin) and rushed to see.  The room was spic and clean and kids were in no mood to leave the room after our long journey since morning.   I was not the one to take a NO and made them get into business of SEEING things through and through from the very first day !! 
c)     But we didn’t realize that Bhutanese time is half an hour earlier than IST and we were gently reminded by the Hotelier to finish our dinner as it may close by 9.30 pm.   Promptly, we finished our food and went down for seeing this very unique structure for the first time.  To our great surprise, many localists were rounding the temple with prayer beads in their hands and fervently rolling the bells of temple and praying.  We could hear some mantras in a deep base voice and felt that we are in a different spiritual Zone.  We could hardly see such a serenity in many of our crowded temples which we could sense in this small temple situated in the border town. This was an indicator of serene things to come on the way, but we were not aware of the same. 
d)    My appetite for roaming around did not subside here and we went for a short walk to see the sleepy town.  Surprised to see a cop standing in the Circle at around 9.30 pm and we got our first lessons here.  As there was no vehicular traffic, we just walked across the circle seeing an ATM there, to draw some local currency.  But the policemen would not allow, he is gesturing us and we don’t understand what’s the big deal.  Then we realized that there was a Zebra crossing, 50 ft away and we are supposed to take it.  All vehicles promptly stop here even without a signal and wait for the pedestrian to cross over.  This looked like a great respect to the common man walking across, which we would never get in our own country.  At this point of time we didn’t know that this is the only country without any traffic signals throughout the place.  For the next five days, our driver in Bhutan did not even honk for more than two-three times !!
e)    The border town of Jaigaon (in India) and the other side of Bhutan-Phuentsholling was a stark contrast which we could see just after crossing a wall which separated two countries.  Roads were clean with people behaving orderly and no noise of vehicles – honking, people shouting.  It was a bit of surprise to see this old town which looked like an oriental place with peaceful people, whereas Jaigaon looked like a busy dusty market place with people running around with great impatience and hurry.  This was another indicator of things to come in our way.  We were sure for a peaceful retreat in this place.

Day - 02
f)   Phuentsholling – Thimphu (178 kms & 6 hrs)
I got up early  and could not resist  a fresh morning walk.  A thorough and peaceful walk was waiting for me and I could see many people going up the hill for a practice in Archery, a national sport of Bhutan.  There were some cute dogs also on the way taken for a round by cuter ladies and I strolled around the river path near the Hotel and had a refreshing morning time.   Familiar looking people and place.  By this time I was getting a feeling that I must have born in this place long ago !!  The serenity of the nation is visible right from its border town.
After a nice breakfast we checked out and started for Thimphu, the Capital of Bhutan.   We were picked up by a local agent for getting travel permit and there was a long que to obtain permission.  We had to fill up details and submit copies of Voter ID/Passport and the officials would enter details in their systems.  The biometric details of all visitors captured and we were given permits to travel for 7 days. Suddenly we realized that our SIMs won’t work and we needed a local SIM – myself and Chinmaya went in search of a Tashi shop and got two SIMS fitted into our mobiles. Of course the currency was not a big problem as they would accept  Indian currency upto 500/- and in some places even 2000/-.   Now all set to go and our Driver Hamid Bhai was ready to move on.  
g)    On the way we were told that we will pass numerous small town of Gedu, Chukha and Chunzom, the confluence of Pa Chu and Thin Chu.  Immediately after leaving the border town, the steep ascent started and our spirits were as high as the surrounding mountains.  I was quite confident that my both kids have grown strong and would withstand the journey in high altitudes/curvy roads to Thimphu, the Capital City of Bhutan. The journey was pleasant and soon we reached certain heights with misty roads with almost 20 feet visibility.  We were thrilled to remember our own Agumbe ghat and it didn’t last longer.  Soon we experienced deep curved roads for long stretches.  Virtually we were closing on a valley with river in between.  We could see long curvy roads for distance and the scenery was picturesque. Suddenly it also rained and we stopped over for food on the way for a brief while.
h)    Reached Timphu at around 7.30 pm and Upon arrival checked in at the hotel.   This tiny capital city looked very decent in outlook and we rested in hotel.  Now, we set foot for a veg dinner and visited M/s Hotel Ajantha, near market place.  We searched in google and in the market area on an obscure corner, we could locate it.  We were surprised to know that it was run by a Buddhist.  Food was good and the parathas served hot with curds. Had a short talk with the owner and appreciated this pure veg restaurant. 

He was too happy to hear and gave full credit to his father who is a complete vegetarian.  He conceded that in Buddhism there is no place for violence and if possible, we should refrain from eating meat.  He was also too happy to know that we are from Mangalore and he had seen Bangalore and loved the place.  All the while, Veenu was too happy to find a pure Veggie place to eat !!
i)      After a sumptuous dinner retreated back to Hotel and as usual my appetite for exploring made me got up early.  This time, whole family got up with me and we slowly walked towards Tashichho Dzong; the main secretarial building which houses the throne room of His Majesty the King of Bhutan and also the head seat of Chief Abbot of Bhutan. It is the summer resident of the monk body, the winter being in Punakha Dzong.  Located at the banks of the Wangchhu River the massive fortress was built in 1641 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal and rebuilt in its present form in 1965 by the Third King of Bhutan Jigme Dorji Wangchuck.   In Bhutan a Dzong is a fort and Lhakhang is a monastery while a Chorten is a small temple.
Day – 03:
j)     Coming back to hotel, we were delighted to see small children running into a school which is just opposite our hotel.  Little Bhutanese kids in their impeccable uniform getting dropped and crossing over the road was a feast to see.  Soon, the morning activities startled our imagination of a School in Bhutan.  There was a beautiful song played and kids danced to the tune very systematically.  There was also a short speech by the Head Mistress followed by a fun filled activity about concentration.  The children were told to avoid any movement with pens, books when teacher is speaking.  To make this habit, there was a game.  They played the same song and kids started putting steps.  Suddenly the music stops and the kids supposed to stop then and there.  This was one good way of improving concentration and their attention to happenings around.  Kids are taught in English and they are extremely well behaved without forgetting their culture.
k)    First thing in the morning was a visit to Royal Textile museum and saw some exquisite hand woven textile.  There was also a demonstration about wearing the national dress for men and women (Gho and Kira).  A small boutique shop made us buy a few mementoes and I was tempted to buy a book on the Visionary King of Bhuthan which was very informative.  A film CD “Samsara” caught my attention depicting the struggle of a monk in his pursuit to enlightenment and the lady at the counter smilingly told me to watch with caution (Not with your daughters).  The theme attracted me but this caution was not understood.  We realized it later when we watched at home and appreciated the conservative caution given by this Bhutanese lady !!
l)      Continuing our exploration in Thimphu we  spend the rest of our time browsing through the Handicrafts Lane of Thimphu where there are more than 50 Government appointed shops selling the traditional Bhutanese crafts that you can buy as souvenirs.   Next it was visit to the famous landmark of the capital, the Memorial Chorten, consecrated in the memory of the Third kind of Bhutan who is regarded as the father of the modern Bhutan.  Just as you enter the Chorten, you will be amazed to witness the local people, young and the old alike, circumambulate the Chorten with the prayer beads or the prayer wheel in hand, murmuring the sacred words of prayers. The tall four storied Chorten contains statues and iconography of deities from the tantric teachings.
m)   Further visit Folk Heritage Museum. One of the oldest house in Thimphu was converted in the Folk Heritage Museum in 2001 to give an insight into the traditional lifestyle of the Bhutanese forefathers. It is like entering a traditional Bhutanese home in, say, 150 years back.
n)    Next it was visit to famous Changangkha Lhakhang, built in 13th century. Situated on a small hill overlooking the Thimphu valley the monastery was built by Lam Phajo Dugom Zhigpo. Children born in Thimphu are taken to this temple because it is considered the spiritual home of the children born in Chang valley and their names are considered here by taking the blessings from the protector deity Tamdrin. If we are lucky, we can witness the local family with the child here performing the rituals. Inside the Lhakhang, the central statue in the temple is Avalokitesvara, Buddha of compassion, in his manifestation with 11 heads, a thousand hands and eyes; it is built with bronze and plated with gold.

o)    It was now time to witness the National Animal of Bhutan, at the Takin Reserve. Takins are related to sheep and weigh up 650 kgs. According to the local folktale, the Divine Madman, Drukpa Kunley, created the Takin by joining the goat’s head in the body of the Cow. This interesting animal is an endangered species found only in few pockets of the Himalayas. By the time we were tired and wanted to rest.  But the places were so tempting and we visited  Buddha Dordenma which is one of the largest Buddha statue in the World at 169 feet. The body of the Buddha is filled with 1,25,000 smaller statues of Buddha. The view of the Thimphu valley is spectacular from this point.  Fully satisfied about the days exploration we came back hotel and before that we were taken to a elevated place to watch lighting in the Dzong and finally we retreated back for the day.
Day 04:
p)    After seeing the present Capital of Bhutan, we now ready to see the ancient capital of Bhutan – Punakha (1200 mts / 3936 ft) 77 kms away from Thimphu.  It was early morning start and we stopped over at Dochula pass (3100 mtrs) to see a spectacular view of some of the highest mountain peaks of Bhutan stretching almost 180 degrees.  There were 108 stupas (we didn’t know what was below !!!).  Later when we visited Chime Lhakhang in Punakha realized that.  Further drive to Punakha was through beautiful landscapes and paddy fields.  We could see some monasteries like structure on the far-off valley and hills which were told to be local Lhakhang’s which is almost unreachable by the tourists.
q)     Punakha was the ancient capital of Bhutan and after construction of the first motorable road connecting Thimphu to rest of the world, it became the present Capital.  Punakha is an ancient city and the Punakha Dzong is considered as the most beautiful fortress in Bhutan. The fortress is to be reached by crossing over a river which adds to the glitter of the fort.  We could see a number of beautiful flower plants and background of mountains was mesmerizing.  We could see a suspension bridge built in olden days to cross over the river.  Perfect place for Chinmaya to take clicks !!!  Veenu did some local purchase and got three good umbrellas for Mangalore rains.  I just silently swallowed a plate full of Veg Momus while also feeding them to two local dogs who happily gave me company.  It was quite tasty and hot!!
r)     After visiting this ancient and beautiful Dzong, we started back towards Paro and We were particular to visit Chimi Lhakhang on the way.  It is the most famous ancient temple of fertility associated with the religious art of phallus.  On a narrow stretch of mountains, we reached the base and walked for around 20 minutes to reach the temple.  On either side of the road, there were small shops displaying artifacts and some very beautify paintings on canvass done by local persons.  The temple was quite impressive in its origin and we came to know about a radical Buddhist monk who set a new path for the localists.  We can call him Osho of Bhutan. 
Lam Drukpa Kuenley (1455 to 1570) was an enlightened Buddhist master who personified the true essence of Vajrayana tradition and is known as crazy wisdom transcending mundane culture of religion.   He was called Divine Madman for his non conventional and outrageous style of teaching.   He wandered as a vagabond along countryside indulging in dance and song, alcohol and women, hunting and feasting.  He was a social critic who taunted hypocrisy of established monastic orders.  He was known for taming a number of demons and demonesses that were tormenting Bhutanese people and subdued infamous and much feared demoness of Dochula and buried her on the mound where Chime Lhakhang was built in 15th century.    
s)     After these two very important places in Bhutan, we started our journey towards Paro.  We continued the drive to descend along the Wang Chu [Thimphu River] to meet Pa Chu [Paro River] at Chunzom, the confluence point of Pa Chu and Wang Chu.  Few kilometres from Chunzum is the Thamchok Lhakhang, a private temple owned by the descendent of the famous Tibetan bridge builder, Thangthong Gyelpo, also known as the “Iron Chain Bridge Builder”.  Still you can see the iron chain bridge which is built by him. It is a photographer’s delight.  By the time we reached Paro it was too dark and we could see a tiny but beautiful run way and the Airport at Paro. At Paro stayed in a Home stay kind of Hotel called Park Hotel. 
t)     As per plan we are supposed to visit the Ta Dzong, the National Museum and the Rinpung Dzong [Paro Dzong]. The Museum boasts of its collection of fine arts, paintings and bronzes. There are also textiles, jewellery, and handicrafts sections as well as galleries of stuffed animals and butterflies from Bhutan. The stamps’ hall is very popular and displays, among others, 3-D stamps, record stamps, silken stamps, embossed stamps and the famous triangular stamp depicting the yeti. Located below the Museum is Paro Dzong.   Also called the Rinpung Dzong, the Fortress of the Heap of Jewels, Paro Dzong was built in 1645 by the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel.
u)    It is an imposing square fortress with a central tower and courtyards housing the administrative quarters and the monastic section.After the visit, we will take the leisurely downhill walk to cross the typical Bhutanese Cantilever Bridge, one of the finest specimens in Bhutan with its shingle roof and two guard-houses at each end.    Next drive 20 minutes to the end of the valley to Drukgyel Dzong. Drukgyal Dzong was a fortress and Buddhist monastery, now in ruins. The dzong was probably built in 1649 at the behest of Ngawang Namgyal, Zhabdrung Rinpoche, to commemorate victory over an invasion from Tibet. One can see the towering peak of Jomolhari (7,316m, 24,003 ft) from this point. This mountain, also revered as a powerful goddess, forms the border with Tibet and provides magnificent background to the ruined Drukgyel Dzong and village. None of this happened since we were short of time and energy required to be conserved for the D-day to climb Tiger Nest Monastery – Taktsang Monastery.
v)     Day 05:  We were over enthused in anticipation of challenging part of the program -  Hike to Taktsang Monastery.    
After breakfast, drive of 20 minutes to the end of the valley to Drukgyel Dzong from where one can see the towering peak of Jomolhari (7,316m, 24,003 ft). This mountain, also revered as a powerful goddess, forms the border with Tibet and provides magnificent background to the ruined Drukgyel Dzong and village.  Taktsang Monastery, clinging on the steep rock, is one of the holiest temple in Bhutan.  It is believed that Guru Rinpoche (Guru Padsambhava) flew on the Tigress back and meditated here. His wife was transformed into a tigress and she assisted him in his tantric ways.
The trek to the temple through the pine tree and sweet aroma of the air is indeed a very special and memorable event. The return hike will take about 05-06 hours. The hike is usually till the cafeteria from where we will have a breath taking view of the Monastery and a photographer’s delight.  For the first 03 hours, we will take the ascend on the well marked trail to reach the cafeteria [lunch point] from where we will get the best view of the Tiger’s Nest. Further 02 hours hike will reach us to the Monastery. However recommended hike is till the cafeteria for the elderly people as per travel agents.  The real trek is here only.  The essence of the monastery is lost if we miss this part. 
w)    The climb up hill was quite difficult at times and we have to maneuver through narrow cliff.  After certain point there were clearly laid down trails and the elevation uptothe cliff is around 900 mtrs.  We slowly climbed up with sufficient rest enjoying the natural beauty of the place. There were many stops for Photo session than for taking rest on the way !!  Our young photographer was clicking in all directions and delighted to get some very sharp photos of the cliff on which Monastery was standing tall. 
After climb of around 5 hours, we reached the peak and there was a well laid out procedure of receiving us and keeping our belongings in a specified place.  Mobiles, cameras are not allowed inside.  A well behaved Lady guide took us inside each of the Lhakhangs and explained the specific importance of the temple.  She was keen on telling us about the procedures to follow and to respect age old traditions.  There were many monks who were doing Prayer/Japa and we are not supposed to disturb them.  If any of the tourists is stranded and left alone, it will be taken seriously and he has to be with the group without disturbing the serenity of the place.
x)    It was very orderly and the explanation given about the religious traditions and practices of the monastery.  A very highly sanctified place with lot of good vibes and we could not resist seeking permission for sitting with closed eyes in a temple. The feeling was very reverential and we sat for a while after which we were promptly picked up by the group leader.  While coming down, we saw another small peak where there were some monks.  Out of curiosity we climbed upto see Guru padmasambhavas Tiger cave and a monk was pleasantly sitting with his Jap mala.  After getting his blessings, we came back to the main trail. The steps were very slippery and carefully, we got back.
y)    We came back by 4.30 pm and all of us very hungry.  The cafeteria was stil open for those who have climbed up and not returned.  After a proper meal, came down the hill and started back to Home stay at Paro.  It was now the wish of Chinmaya to have a  BHUTANESE HOT STONE BATH  which is needed to be booked in advance.   As told to us there can be nothing better than to soak your body in the traditional tub after the Taktsang Hike.  Similar to Japan, Bhutan offers a traditional form of bath called the hot stone bath.
Originally practiced for health or luxury purposes, a Bhutan hot stone bath takes a lot of time and effort to prepare. Particular stones are handpicked from the river which are heated up in the open fire until they turn blood red. The traditional wooden tub is filled with cold water and then the red hot stones are dipped in until the water warms up.  Herbs are added to the water and the experience can be compared to that of a natural hot tub minus the jets. The herbs used varied according to family and the recipe often was treated as a family secret, which was passed down from generation to generation.  It is a very natural experience that includes the elements of water, fire and earth.
z)    I would be failing if I don’t mention about the Home stay in Paro and our early morning visit to Kichu Lhakang.  This Hotel is fully managed by a Lady by name Psang Dolma with the help of another five girls who were very active and courteous.  They were in fact were waiting on the road to receive us and show the way to Hotel when we arrived at around 8 pm. Mrs. Psang Dolma w/o Gem Dorji, was a very curious lady and she enquired us thoroughly and we had a good interaction. 
The family was very pious and we were told that her husband goes to the nearby Lhakhang every day at 5.30 am in the morning.  They were also surprised to know that we are pure vegetarians and she virtually blessed us saying that they also don’t want to eat any meat at all.  They have regular prayers at home and the whole family looked very sober and affable.  When we told her about Taktsang hike, she said her brother is a monk there and further to the Taktsang monastery there is another place for trekkers where they can stay in the monastery surroundings.  She invited us to visit next time and assured to arrange for a special visit to the Monastery which is further up hill.  We were delighted. 
aa)  Previous day morning, we had gone for a walk to nearby Kichu Lhakhang which is said to be one of the oldest Lhakhangs of Bhuthan.  The early morning atmosphere was so serene and we could see a number of old ladies and daily walekers visiting Lhakhang and offering their silent prayers.  Most of the ladies were having a long bead and they were repeating a mantra as initiated by their monk.  We wanted to visit inside sanctum sanctoriumand took permission through Gem Dorji and went inside for a while.  It was delightful morning to offer prayers  on a Buddha Purnima day and we were deeply touched by the serenity of the place. 
bb) To our great surprise, when we came out, we saw an old Monk who was curious to know about us.  In his tit-bit Hindi, he enquired as to where we are from.  He was enquiring about distance and the amount of money spent by us to visit this Lhakhang.  When he heard about distance and price, he was virtually elated and blessed us that we have come a long way.  The warmth and affection were very clear in his eyes and he wouldn’t let us go.  Finally, he took two ten-rupee notes from his pocket and gave us to keep.  It was a simple gesture and so remarkable that he was touched by our visit from a long distance and our wish to pray on a Buddha Purnima day.   I carefully kept this into my valet, as a souvenir and we wished him farewell.  Such a simple act of giving ten rupees note made us think about the humane nature of Bhutanese people.  This place is truly blessed.
cc)  With a heavy heart and great peace/joy from within we returned back from Paro next day morning.  After reaching Phuentsholling, it was a different world of chaos and nuisance.  We virtually felt out of place and the difference in attitude of people and the state of affairs in this place was too much digest.  It was like coming from Heaven to visit Hell.  Out plans were like that to reach Gangtok same day and later come back via Darjeeling.  Virtually, I would say that our trip ended here at Phuentshilling itself and the balance was only for information sake. 


dd) There was nothing much to write except about some chilling experiences in Tsomog lake / Changu lake, a glacial lake in the East Sikkin district, 45 kms away from Gangtok.  Located at an elevation of 3,753 m, the lake remains frozen during the winter season it is actually a replica of the topography and terrain which we saw in Bhutan.   In Darjeeling we visited Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park is a 67.56-acre zoo in the town of Darjeeling in the Indian state of West Bengal. The zoo was opened in 1958, and an average elevation of 7,000 feet, is the largest high altitude zoo in India. Tea garden: Darjeeling tea is a tea grown in the Darjeeling district in West Bengal, India, and widely exported and known. It is processed as black, green, white and oolong tea. When properly brewed, it yields a thin-bodied, light-coloured infusion with a floral aroma.   
ee) The last part of the program was Tiger Hill which is located in Darjeeling, in the Indian State of West Bengal, and is the summit of Ghoom, the highest railway station in the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has a panoramic view of Mount Everest and Mount Kanchenjunga together. Very early in the morning, we went to Tiger Hill to catch a glimpse of sunrise over Kanchenjunga.  We could also see Batasia loop.  The Batasia Loop is a spiral railway created to lower the gradient of ascent of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway in Darjeeling district of West Bengal, India. At this point, the track spirals around over itself through a tunnel and over a hilltop. It was commissioned in 1919.   The Nathula pass and the Baba Mandir was really enjoyable, but the chaos and rush seen in Gangtok and Darjeeling, was not very palpable as we just descended from a very orderly nation and our minds did not really enjoy the Indian side of the very same Himalayas.
ff)   It was a revelation that with orderly and disciplined citizens whose beliefs system is deeply rooted in religion and righteousness, we could make lot of difference in our attitude towards fellow beings in particular and the nature in general.   Visit of Bhutan would remain fresh in our minds for a long time to come. We had such a serene experience in each and every place we visited in Bhutan.  There were no traffic lights and no honking in any part of Bhutan.  People are so kind and courteous in their behavior with fellow citizens. The differences in governance of a constitutional monarchy and institutional anarchy was very visible.  The reverence and importance given to the age-old culture & tradition and good governance by the rulers reflected in the High Happiness Index of the nation.  With a great hope that we would emulate the quality of life in this tiny nation, we returned home.



Saturday, March 3, 2018

Sheshachalam Trek - a travelogue or monologue !!



SHESHACHALAM TREK – A Unique Pilgrim trek by YHAI
          Sheshachalam –trek on the abode of God of Seven Hills, Shri Balaji Tirupathi Devasthana, is a memorable wander into one of 108 Theerthams on the Thirumala. People often visit, Papanashana Theertha, Aakash Ganga and Kapila Theertha as they are very easily accessible by road and pay their respects to the Theerthas and enjoy the serene atmosphere there.  However, there are many more unknown and mystique Theerthams which I remembered to have visited during my early childhood days, like Thumburu Theertham, Ramakrishna Theertham in the deep woods of Thirumala with my parents and especially, the most pious and determined lady my mother who was fond of Thirupathy Venkataramana. She would climb without taking any food and till finishing Darshana of the Lord Venkateswara !!  I remember a family trip to Thirupathy when I was around 10 years of age; we climbed the hills during wee hours of around 3.30 am and it was quite dark and scary to climb in those days without any facilities or shelter.  My father was determined to go up and we went and got scolding from Forest officials for daring in the night along with family members as there was a threat of animals roaming on the way. I still remember the chill feeling we had throughout the climb !!!
          Just to refresh my child hood memories, it came upon as if I was destined to visit Thirumala through YHAI trek program – Sheshachalam.   I could not visit Thirupathy for a long time even though it remained my favorite hill to climb on foot for a long time. Again, all due to the initiative of my brother, Venkat who has become a senior trekker of YHAI along with his better half, Bhagya who is ever ready to do an outing this way.  She had in fact, designed an ingenious sleeping bag with available materials like Woollen Shawls and linen.  We all set foot on a day of Karnataka Bandh after borrowing Grand I10 of TVS to Tirumala on 25th early morning.  There were lots of uncertainties, I just landed after an overnight journey from Mangalore and we had to reach by 2 pm to get into the forest and the reporting point was “Keshava Reddy School (formerly Bhuvanagiri School) at Kukkala doddi Village, about 30 kms towards Kodur from Thirupathy and 20 kms from Renigunta Station, (the literal meaning of Kukkala doddi being a place for canines reared by one local headman).
Kodur is known for growing a variety of mangoes and further leads towards Kadapa. I met a farmer who studied in this School and got an insight into the sanctity of this place.  This route used to be called “Annamayya margam” in memory of the devout Annamacharya who used to climb from the rear side of the hill. The very fact that this path was treaded by Saint Annamacharya and a noted devotional poetess “Vengamamba” filled my soul with pleasantness and a bit of excitement. Tarikonda Vengamamba was a Niyogi Brahmin lady and staunch devotee of Lord Ventakeshwara who became a Yogini and written devotional poems on Lord. She dedicated her life to Lord after becoming a child widow who considered Lord as her husband and continued to dress as a married woman. Story goes that she was doing Ekantha Seva to Lord Venkateswara and she was banished by the priests to a cave about 15 kms away from Tirumala and this did not deter her from worshipping the lord. She used to travel through the cave and reach temple for worship!!  We were about to stay in this cave near Tumburu Theertha, on the third day of our stay and this was quite a fascinating thing for me to visualize the life of such a staunch devotee and contemporary of Annamacharya in 17th Century. 
I remembered a similar story of Akka Mahadevi who lived near Kardaliwan cave, close to Shri Shaila Mallikarjuna Temple. It did not look like just a coincidence that we were there during last month !!!.  My fascination with the place and the Shloka “Shree Shaila Shikaram Dhristva Punar Janma na vidyathe” was satisfied during this yet another pilgrim-trek which could happen only partly due to forest permission issues.

Day 1:
At around, 3.30 pm we were briefed about the program and trekkers started moving in line to reach a place called Bandi Marisula which is roughly two and half hours easy trek. It is a very secluded place for resting in the night and it is said that the Tigers used to attach the bullock carts with such a great force that the wooden spokes used to break for the intense attach.  The literal meaning of Bandi is Bullock cart and Marisula is the wooden spoke which broke. After hearing this, the place seemed a bit scare. But seeing the natural surroundings, all such fears disappeared. There was a natural pond surrounded by pristine brown coloured rocks and dense forest in the background.  The camp site was quite small and could have accommodated about 50 to 60 trekkers only. We were nearly a hundred.  From here we are to start trek next day to explore the dense forests including some perennial springs, Secret Canyons,  Cascading Waterfalls, Century old tall trees, caves, pre historic rock paintings etc.,  off the beaten tracks with the help of enthusiastic YHAI volunteers headed by KV Prasad and Balu garu.  This trek happens once in a year and hence there was a big rush of trekkers and some piligrims who want to see this part of Tirumala.
After a sumptuous tea break and dinner later in the evening, we rested in the open for a while. There were no tents of YHAI but Venkat was ready with a tent of his own and pitched the same  at an appropriate place. My sleep bag saved me from the chilled nights but this did not guarantee sound sleep as there was so much enthusiasm among trekkers, pilgrims who were excited and kept awake through out the night giggling, cracking jokes and made a bit unusual noise in this serene atmosphere.  Days trek was very light and we kept good pace with all enthusiasm. The regular camp was unavailable and another batch yet to join us next day morning.

Day 2:
The day’s mandate was to reach Yerra Reddi Madugu and come back early for another short trek of two kms near our camp site.  But it was long enough to reach and we were there at around 2 pm as we left late. This is a natural pond and water flowing throughout the year. After a strenuous walk of five hours we were eager to enter into water.  I was watching others getting soon into water and I also slowly moved on. This is where I drowned in the Water for the first time in life. There were big rocks in the water and the depth was not visible.  I slowly moved towards the middle and felt that there is no more rock to go further.  I decided to go back and turnedback.  But at this stagem I slipped and drowned back and in seconds went down.  I tried to cycle and come up, but the legs were not having enough strength to co operate.  I now felt that I am drowning and unable to reach the top of the rock so that I can stand.  Heard, Kitty shouting loudly and making gestures.  I had to grab another fellow swimmer, but he could not take me and I again drowned.  Now I knew that I cannot come up without help.
There were many in the pond who would not have noticed me.  Within seconds, I grabbed someone else and came aboard on the rock, a bit shaken by my inability to come back to a safe place.  For a moment I could see Kitty waiving and calling names. I gave him a shock of the day and he was trembling with fear and agony. I was quite comfortable and came little closer to the pond.  Now it was my turn to help someone else.  There was a girl who was trying to come and go back.  I observed that she is very nervous and finally as expected she drowned a little into the water.  I could clearly see that she could not stand and head went inside.   She was unable to come back to the top and I immediately grabbed her hand and lifted her to safety.  Now the debt is repaid and I felt better!!
After having packed lunch, we started back. Now the number of trekkers who came directly increased and we had to go back to camp before it is too late.  On the way we had to cross a big grass land and the chances of missing route was bright during night. We speeded up and tried move fast so that the large batch could move safely in distance.  We had to give breaks for the other trekkers to join without having much gaps in between. Finally, wewereback by 6 pm to be greeted with a much wanted Tea break followed by Bajji.   Bajji looked so delicious and also ensured smooth passage next day morning!!
Day 3:
This was the D day, I was waiting for.  To see Vengamamba Caves and Tumburu Theertha whichis close by.  We moved on at around 9 am and started trekking towards hills besides the camp.  We had to cross over quite a number of small streams of water bodies; which was presently only boulders and water here & there. Crossing over the boulders for most of the trek was difficult & strenuous.  We had everychance of skidding and spraining ourselves which would make us no more fit for further journey. Luckily, we were careful enough to avoid such a situatin and kept walking towards Tumburu Valley.  We stopped over for lunch at Chakalibanawater fall and there is also a pre historic period cave and we climbed into the same.   It was  refreshing place for having lunch and relaxation thereafter.
We reached Vengamamba caves and occupied the temporary tents / plastic roofs at around 12.30 pm.  The Tumburu Theertham was close by and we moved on to see this majestic theertham.  It is highly religious place and many rishis did penance in ancient times. The trek through the canyon with towering hills of more than 200 feet with a clearance of 20 to 30 metres between the vertical rock walls climbing over boulders wading through pools of water ultimately reaching the water fall where the two hills join together is an unforgettable experience.  We could see a number of ponds in the rock which we were cautioned to avoid entering as nobody knows how deep they are.  We had to slowly go sideways to avoid falling into the pond by skidding onrocks!!There were local persons to cross us over to the other part of Big canyons route which itself was a diving path to reach the ultimate Theertham. The water was chilled and we enjoyed the walk through.  All our pains in leg disappeared in a whiff once we had bath in the stream finally at the end of the split rocky canyon. It is said that the big canyons are extremely rare sight in nature and it is thrilling to see tham.  The serenity of the place is amazing and I started visualizing the period when rishis walked in this path doing their regular penance.  Vengamamba cave is not too far away and she must be visiting this place daily. 
We can see a large number of big ant hills on the way and one at the entrance had an idol being worshipped next to the ant hill.  It looked like Tumburu rishi who has mastered music.  The Tumburu Narada are well known for their music and devotion in our puranas.  With a deep sense of satisfaction, we came backto the Vengamamba caves and settled down.  There was a Yogi Maharaj in this place.   People say that he was ex military and came here to meditate and eventually settled down.  He was alsogiving medicines to the local people when they were sick and was killed by some unknown people / poachers during 2010.  All the ladies were accommodated in the cave parchment and we settled down in the temporary plastic tents outside. We felt that it was a real trek today followed by a rare rock formation (Canyon) mostly due to certain kind of earth quake or re orientation of the planet millions of years ago.  The memories of this wonderful cave and the theertham would remain for a long time to come.
Day 4:
          This was the last day and we were all completely exhausted physically.  Our minds were fresh and energies high, even though there is pain everywhere. Destination was Rama Theertham and reaching Papanashanam for grand finale of the trek.   We had break fast and packed lunch.  Thanked all the workers who helped us in pitching temporary tents, preparing food and leading us safely through forest.  After a brief ceremony, we also got our certificates in advance as some parties would require to leave early. 
 We had to climb up hill for about 5 kms on the serenic hills followed by 1 km ascent and 2 km deep descent on the rocks which seems to have been thrown from above.  The climb was bit strenuous as there was sun on top of our head and we slowly reached the base camp of Ramakrishna Theertham.  We left our bags there and started ascent of 1 km followed a deadly descent of 2 kms down hll. It was a dangerous and risky walk down the hill with big boulders and sharp stones.   This place is visited by pilgrims once in a year during Magha pournami for ceremonies.  The TTD staff were busy erecting temporary ladders made out of wood down hill and we slowly went down using ropes on the way.  Going down was quite exhausting and needed lot of patience with physical agility to climb big rocks/stones and without falling at any place !!  After reaching down, we were deighted to see the theertham and the source was difficult to identify as we have to swim across to see whichwas not possible.  However, I tried to walk on the cliff to see the last visible part and took some very good pictures.   One more trekker followed me and his thirst for selfies was satisfied by taking photos from a dangerously looking cliff.  Down there was a stream of water coming from the falls and many of our trekkers were found to be enjoying the ice cold water swim.
By this time we realized that the stomach is empty and our bags in base camp had the luch pack.  We had no option to climb back and our butter fly man – Biju was so hungry.  He started looking for food everywhere and nothing came through.  Luckily, there were local TTD staff were trying to save some food packets they received from Temple from the monkeys who weretrying ferociously to steal some packets.  I was lucky to get one packet which would have been offered for monkeys and both of us shared the divine pongal prasadam which would have otherwise gone monkey way!!.    We were really lucky to eat pongal with some local chutney which tasted like heaven. 
Finally, after some rest we climbed back the same way towards tht top of the hill, which seemed better while climbing.  It was anyway risky to hurry and we tread slowly to reach the top and had food. This was the last part of trek and we finally bid adieu to our Trek leaders and walked towards Papanashanam.   After paying respects to the Goddess Ganga, we moved on to Thirumala and later to Thirupathy to drive back to Bangalore.  My wish to have Darshanam was not possible due to technical reasons and I decided to do it later with family. Came back to Mangalore by catching some local Saarige bus at around 12.30 pm and  travelled through out the night to see Chinmaya who was not well.  It was really a test of my endurance to travel during night in the local busses from Bangalore to Hassan, Hassan to Mudigere and Mudigere to Mangalore, after a 4D / 3N trek on Tirumala. The entire journey starting on 24th night at Mangalore to 29th January, 2018 was like a dream with no gaps in between. 
My ambition of climbing the Thirumala hill was fulfilled in a different way and the memories would linger well for quite some time.  I had consciously chosen to keep my conversation with the fellow trekkers to the barest minimum and enjoyed the solitude even though I was one among 100+ trekkers.  Hopefully, I would visit these places again with family and enjoy it in a different way, very soon.  There are 108 theerthams on this holy hill and their religious sanctity is very significant.  The rush we find in Thirumala is really scary and if everybody wishes to visit these theerthams, it may severely impact the environment. They are better off without pilgrims and an occasional visit of trekker-pilgrims would be good for the ecology of Seven hills.   Eco tourism is the need of the hour in this place and it cannot be compromised for our selfish nature. Generally people think that the entire planet belongs to them and they have every right to use all the resources for their entertainment.  It may be the reason that the nature has kept it secrets very closely and very few would know the way.  Vengamamba Cave, Tumburu Theertham, Ramakrishna Theertham are the unique mystical places which we cannot forget for a long time.