Sunday, June 23, 2019

Phuentsholling to Darjeeling - A travellogue


P-Ling to D-Ling  &  Tiger Nest to Tiger Hill  -
(a Long family sojourn for 9 Days and 8 Nights)
          This is in continuation of a few travelogues on account of journeys initiated by my bro-Kitty, an avid trekker, traveler and explorer of places.  At his behest we could do Amarnath Yatra, Venkatachalam trek and a few more local treks.  As usual he is the one who made us think about a long family program to North-east.  This time we got lucky to see North eastern part of Himalayas and planned to visit the land of wellness measured high by Happiness Index.   You must have guessed right. It is Bhutan a tiny nation surrounded by China, Nepal and India. Unlike earlier times, I could not immediately write about this trip and due to lapse of time, I might have missed the details, but the happy impressions which we carry in our minds stay for longer till we re-visit this place in a different season.   Hence this travelogue would definitely find a revised version in the years to come.  We all eagerly wait for another round in this Constitutional monarchy and THE LAND OF SERENITY.
          A brief intro to the place:
The Kingdom of Bhutan is located in the eastern Himalayas land locked between India and China.  A tiny nation with an area of just over 38000 sq. kms and population of over 6 lakhs but able to give a powerful message to the world.   Popularly known as Land of Thuder Dragon and often referred as The Last Shangri-La.  Though a small country by size and population, blessed with the most spectacular physical beauty with wide range of flora and fauna.  It is a well-insulated and protected land, where Vajrayana Buddhism took roots in 8th century and continues to play a major role in its present-day administration.  A nation highly claimed to have balanced material and spiritual development and blessed to have a Visionary King  Jigme Singye Wangchuk who came up with this beautiful concept.  The Gross National Happiness (GNH) which became the official development philosophy of Bhutan combining four pillars of GNH being Economic development, good governance, environmental conservation and preservation & promotion of culture.  Religion and governance go hand in hand keeping this objective in view.  We were in for a peaceful retreat in this great but tiny Himalayan nation. 
The family sojourn began on 13th May and the daily narrative goes on…..
Day 01:  
a)     With full of excitement of a long LTC  (looked like Long Travel Concession !!) we embarked upon from Mangalore at around 5.30 am and reached Bangalore Airport.  We had roughly two hours time left for the next flight and I had carefully planned for web check-in with specific seats for all the four.  In spite of small delay we arrived at Bagdogra Airport at around 3.30 pm.  We were greeted by one Dileep who was to take us to Phuentsholling (298 mtrs / 977 fts) the gate-way to Land of happiness which looked like gateway to heavens.


b)    It was a 4.5 hour plain drive covering for about 165 kms and we scraped through narrow roads of WB and enjoyed seeing plantations on the plan lands for the first time.  Our imagination about plantations on the hilly regions fell through when we saw many plantations on the roadside.  The road was running parallel to river Teestha and crossing over in a few places on the way, we reached Phuentsholling around 8.30 pm.  We couldn’t resist after noticing a small temple surrounded by a little garden like place, just opposite the Hotel we stayed (Hotel Damchin) and rushed to see.  The room was spic and clean and kids were in no mood to leave the room after our long journey since morning.   I was not the one to take a NO and made them get into business of SEEING things through and through from the very first day !! 
c)     But we didn’t realize that Bhutanese time is half an hour earlier than IST and we were gently reminded by the Hotelier to finish our dinner as it may close by 9.30 pm.   Promptly, we finished our food and went down for seeing this very unique structure for the first time.  To our great surprise, many localists were rounding the temple with prayer beads in their hands and fervently rolling the bells of temple and praying.  We could hear some mantras in a deep base voice and felt that we are in a different spiritual Zone.  We could hardly see such a serenity in many of our crowded temples which we could sense in this small temple situated in the border town. This was an indicator of serene things to come on the way, but we were not aware of the same. 
d)    My appetite for roaming around did not subside here and we went for a short walk to see the sleepy town.  Surprised to see a cop standing in the Circle at around 9.30 pm and we got our first lessons here.  As there was no vehicular traffic, we just walked across the circle seeing an ATM there, to draw some local currency.  But the policemen would not allow, he is gesturing us and we don’t understand what’s the big deal.  Then we realized that there was a Zebra crossing, 50 ft away and we are supposed to take it.  All vehicles promptly stop here even without a signal and wait for the pedestrian to cross over.  This looked like a great respect to the common man walking across, which we would never get in our own country.  At this point of time we didn’t know that this is the only country without any traffic signals throughout the place.  For the next five days, our driver in Bhutan did not even honk for more than two-three times !!
e)    The border town of Jaigaon (in India) and the other side of Bhutan-Phuentsholling was a stark contrast which we could see just after crossing a wall which separated two countries.  Roads were clean with people behaving orderly and no noise of vehicles – honking, people shouting.  It was a bit of surprise to see this old town which looked like an oriental place with peaceful people, whereas Jaigaon looked like a busy dusty market place with people running around with great impatience and hurry.  This was another indicator of things to come in our way.  We were sure for a peaceful retreat in this place.

Day - 02
f)   Phuentsholling – Thimphu (178 kms & 6 hrs)
I got up early  and could not resist  a fresh morning walk.  A thorough and peaceful walk was waiting for me and I could see many people going up the hill for a practice in Archery, a national sport of Bhutan.  There were some cute dogs also on the way taken for a round by cuter ladies and I strolled around the river path near the Hotel and had a refreshing morning time.   Familiar looking people and place.  By this time I was getting a feeling that I must have born in this place long ago !!  The serenity of the nation is visible right from its border town.
After a nice breakfast we checked out and started for Thimphu, the Capital of Bhutan.   We were picked up by a local agent for getting travel permit and there was a long que to obtain permission.  We had to fill up details and submit copies of Voter ID/Passport and the officials would enter details in their systems.  The biometric details of all visitors captured and we were given permits to travel for 7 days. Suddenly we realized that our SIMs won’t work and we needed a local SIM – myself and Chinmaya went in search of a Tashi shop and got two SIMS fitted into our mobiles. Of course the currency was not a big problem as they would accept  Indian currency upto 500/- and in some places even 2000/-.   Now all set to go and our Driver Hamid Bhai was ready to move on.  
g)    On the way we were told that we will pass numerous small town of Gedu, Chukha and Chunzom, the confluence of Pa Chu and Thin Chu.  Immediately after leaving the border town, the steep ascent started and our spirits were as high as the surrounding mountains.  I was quite confident that my both kids have grown strong and would withstand the journey in high altitudes/curvy roads to Thimphu, the Capital City of Bhutan. The journey was pleasant and soon we reached certain heights with misty roads with almost 20 feet visibility.  We were thrilled to remember our own Agumbe ghat and it didn’t last longer.  Soon we experienced deep curved roads for long stretches.  Virtually we were closing on a valley with river in between.  We could see long curvy roads for distance and the scenery was picturesque. Suddenly it also rained and we stopped over for food on the way for a brief while.
h)    Reached Timphu at around 7.30 pm and Upon arrival checked in at the hotel.   This tiny capital city looked very decent in outlook and we rested in hotel.  Now, we set foot for a veg dinner and visited M/s Hotel Ajantha, near market place.  We searched in google and in the market area on an obscure corner, we could locate it.  We were surprised to know that it was run by a Buddhist.  Food was good and the parathas served hot with curds. Had a short talk with the owner and appreciated this pure veg restaurant. 

He was too happy to hear and gave full credit to his father who is a complete vegetarian.  He conceded that in Buddhism there is no place for violence and if possible, we should refrain from eating meat.  He was also too happy to know that we are from Mangalore and he had seen Bangalore and loved the place.  All the while, Veenu was too happy to find a pure Veggie place to eat !!
i)      After a sumptuous dinner retreated back to Hotel and as usual my appetite for exploring made me got up early.  This time, whole family got up with me and we slowly walked towards Tashichho Dzong; the main secretarial building which houses the throne room of His Majesty the King of Bhutan and also the head seat of Chief Abbot of Bhutan. It is the summer resident of the monk body, the winter being in Punakha Dzong.  Located at the banks of the Wangchhu River the massive fortress was built in 1641 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal and rebuilt in its present form in 1965 by the Third King of Bhutan Jigme Dorji Wangchuck.   In Bhutan a Dzong is a fort and Lhakhang is a monastery while a Chorten is a small temple.
Day – 03:
j)     Coming back to hotel, we were delighted to see small children running into a school which is just opposite our hotel.  Little Bhutanese kids in their impeccable uniform getting dropped and crossing over the road was a feast to see.  Soon, the morning activities startled our imagination of a School in Bhutan.  There was a beautiful song played and kids danced to the tune very systematically.  There was also a short speech by the Head Mistress followed by a fun filled activity about concentration.  The children were told to avoid any movement with pens, books when teacher is speaking.  To make this habit, there was a game.  They played the same song and kids started putting steps.  Suddenly the music stops and the kids supposed to stop then and there.  This was one good way of improving concentration and their attention to happenings around.  Kids are taught in English and they are extremely well behaved without forgetting their culture.
k)    First thing in the morning was a visit to Royal Textile museum and saw some exquisite hand woven textile.  There was also a demonstration about wearing the national dress for men and women (Gho and Kira).  A small boutique shop made us buy a few mementoes and I was tempted to buy a book on the Visionary King of Bhuthan which was very informative.  A film CD “Samsara” caught my attention depicting the struggle of a monk in his pursuit to enlightenment and the lady at the counter smilingly told me to watch with caution (Not with your daughters).  The theme attracted me but this caution was not understood.  We realized it later when we watched at home and appreciated the conservative caution given by this Bhutanese lady !!
l)      Continuing our exploration in Thimphu we  spend the rest of our time browsing through the Handicrafts Lane of Thimphu where there are more than 50 Government appointed shops selling the traditional Bhutanese crafts that you can buy as souvenirs.   Next it was visit to the famous landmark of the capital, the Memorial Chorten, consecrated in the memory of the Third kind of Bhutan who is regarded as the father of the modern Bhutan.  Just as you enter the Chorten, you will be amazed to witness the local people, young and the old alike, circumambulate the Chorten with the prayer beads or the prayer wheel in hand, murmuring the sacred words of prayers. The tall four storied Chorten contains statues and iconography of deities from the tantric teachings.
m)   Further visit Folk Heritage Museum. One of the oldest house in Thimphu was converted in the Folk Heritage Museum in 2001 to give an insight into the traditional lifestyle of the Bhutanese forefathers. It is like entering a traditional Bhutanese home in, say, 150 years back.
n)    Next it was visit to famous Changangkha Lhakhang, built in 13th century. Situated on a small hill overlooking the Thimphu valley the monastery was built by Lam Phajo Dugom Zhigpo. Children born in Thimphu are taken to this temple because it is considered the spiritual home of the children born in Chang valley and their names are considered here by taking the blessings from the protector deity Tamdrin. If we are lucky, we can witness the local family with the child here performing the rituals. Inside the Lhakhang, the central statue in the temple is Avalokitesvara, Buddha of compassion, in his manifestation with 11 heads, a thousand hands and eyes; it is built with bronze and plated with gold.

o)    It was now time to witness the National Animal of Bhutan, at the Takin Reserve. Takins are related to sheep and weigh up 650 kgs. According to the local folktale, the Divine Madman, Drukpa Kunley, created the Takin by joining the goat’s head in the body of the Cow. This interesting animal is an endangered species found only in few pockets of the Himalayas. By the time we were tired and wanted to rest.  But the places were so tempting and we visited  Buddha Dordenma which is one of the largest Buddha statue in the World at 169 feet. The body of the Buddha is filled with 1,25,000 smaller statues of Buddha. The view of the Thimphu valley is spectacular from this point.  Fully satisfied about the days exploration we came back hotel and before that we were taken to a elevated place to watch lighting in the Dzong and finally we retreated back for the day.
Day 04:
p)    After seeing the present Capital of Bhutan, we now ready to see the ancient capital of Bhutan – Punakha (1200 mts / 3936 ft) 77 kms away from Thimphu.  It was early morning start and we stopped over at Dochula pass (3100 mtrs) to see a spectacular view of some of the highest mountain peaks of Bhutan stretching almost 180 degrees.  There were 108 stupas (we didn’t know what was below !!!).  Later when we visited Chime Lhakhang in Punakha realized that.  Further drive to Punakha was through beautiful landscapes and paddy fields.  We could see some monasteries like structure on the far-off valley and hills which were told to be local Lhakhang’s which is almost unreachable by the tourists.
q)     Punakha was the ancient capital of Bhutan and after construction of the first motorable road connecting Thimphu to rest of the world, it became the present Capital.  Punakha is an ancient city and the Punakha Dzong is considered as the most beautiful fortress in Bhutan. The fortress is to be reached by crossing over a river which adds to the glitter of the fort.  We could see a number of beautiful flower plants and background of mountains was mesmerizing.  We could see a suspension bridge built in olden days to cross over the river.  Perfect place for Chinmaya to take clicks !!!  Veenu did some local purchase and got three good umbrellas for Mangalore rains.  I just silently swallowed a plate full of Veg Momus while also feeding them to two local dogs who happily gave me company.  It was quite tasty and hot!!
r)     After visiting this ancient and beautiful Dzong, we started back towards Paro and We were particular to visit Chimi Lhakhang on the way.  It is the most famous ancient temple of fertility associated with the religious art of phallus.  On a narrow stretch of mountains, we reached the base and walked for around 20 minutes to reach the temple.  On either side of the road, there were small shops displaying artifacts and some very beautify paintings on canvass done by local persons.  The temple was quite impressive in its origin and we came to know about a radical Buddhist monk who set a new path for the localists.  We can call him Osho of Bhutan. 
Lam Drukpa Kuenley (1455 to 1570) was an enlightened Buddhist master who personified the true essence of Vajrayana tradition and is known as crazy wisdom transcending mundane culture of religion.   He was called Divine Madman for his non conventional and outrageous style of teaching.   He wandered as a vagabond along countryside indulging in dance and song, alcohol and women, hunting and feasting.  He was a social critic who taunted hypocrisy of established monastic orders.  He was known for taming a number of demons and demonesses that were tormenting Bhutanese people and subdued infamous and much feared demoness of Dochula and buried her on the mound where Chime Lhakhang was built in 15th century.    
s)     After these two very important places in Bhutan, we started our journey towards Paro.  We continued the drive to descend along the Wang Chu [Thimphu River] to meet Pa Chu [Paro River] at Chunzom, the confluence point of Pa Chu and Wang Chu.  Few kilometres from Chunzum is the Thamchok Lhakhang, a private temple owned by the descendent of the famous Tibetan bridge builder, Thangthong Gyelpo, also known as the “Iron Chain Bridge Builder”.  Still you can see the iron chain bridge which is built by him. It is a photographer’s delight.  By the time we reached Paro it was too dark and we could see a tiny but beautiful run way and the Airport at Paro. At Paro stayed in a Home stay kind of Hotel called Park Hotel. 
t)     As per plan we are supposed to visit the Ta Dzong, the National Museum and the Rinpung Dzong [Paro Dzong]. The Museum boasts of its collection of fine arts, paintings and bronzes. There are also textiles, jewellery, and handicrafts sections as well as galleries of stuffed animals and butterflies from Bhutan. The stamps’ hall is very popular and displays, among others, 3-D stamps, record stamps, silken stamps, embossed stamps and the famous triangular stamp depicting the yeti. Located below the Museum is Paro Dzong.   Also called the Rinpung Dzong, the Fortress of the Heap of Jewels, Paro Dzong was built in 1645 by the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel.
u)    It is an imposing square fortress with a central tower and courtyards housing the administrative quarters and the monastic section.After the visit, we will take the leisurely downhill walk to cross the typical Bhutanese Cantilever Bridge, one of the finest specimens in Bhutan with its shingle roof and two guard-houses at each end.    Next drive 20 minutes to the end of the valley to Drukgyel Dzong. Drukgyal Dzong was a fortress and Buddhist monastery, now in ruins. The dzong was probably built in 1649 at the behest of Ngawang Namgyal, Zhabdrung Rinpoche, to commemorate victory over an invasion from Tibet. One can see the towering peak of Jomolhari (7,316m, 24,003 ft) from this point. This mountain, also revered as a powerful goddess, forms the border with Tibet and provides magnificent background to the ruined Drukgyel Dzong and village. None of this happened since we were short of time and energy required to be conserved for the D-day to climb Tiger Nest Monastery – Taktsang Monastery.
v)     Day 05:  We were over enthused in anticipation of challenging part of the program -  Hike to Taktsang Monastery.    
After breakfast, drive of 20 minutes to the end of the valley to Drukgyel Dzong from where one can see the towering peak of Jomolhari (7,316m, 24,003 ft). This mountain, also revered as a powerful goddess, forms the border with Tibet and provides magnificent background to the ruined Drukgyel Dzong and village.  Taktsang Monastery, clinging on the steep rock, is one of the holiest temple in Bhutan.  It is believed that Guru Rinpoche (Guru Padsambhava) flew on the Tigress back and meditated here. His wife was transformed into a tigress and she assisted him in his tantric ways.
The trek to the temple through the pine tree and sweet aroma of the air is indeed a very special and memorable event. The return hike will take about 05-06 hours. The hike is usually till the cafeteria from where we will have a breath taking view of the Monastery and a photographer’s delight.  For the first 03 hours, we will take the ascend on the well marked trail to reach the cafeteria [lunch point] from where we will get the best view of the Tiger’s Nest. Further 02 hours hike will reach us to the Monastery. However recommended hike is till the cafeteria for the elderly people as per travel agents.  The real trek is here only.  The essence of the monastery is lost if we miss this part. 
w)    The climb up hill was quite difficult at times and we have to maneuver through narrow cliff.  After certain point there were clearly laid down trails and the elevation uptothe cliff is around 900 mtrs.  We slowly climbed up with sufficient rest enjoying the natural beauty of the place. There were many stops for Photo session than for taking rest on the way !!  Our young photographer was clicking in all directions and delighted to get some very sharp photos of the cliff on which Monastery was standing tall. 
After climb of around 5 hours, we reached the peak and there was a well laid out procedure of receiving us and keeping our belongings in a specified place.  Mobiles, cameras are not allowed inside.  A well behaved Lady guide took us inside each of the Lhakhangs and explained the specific importance of the temple.  She was keen on telling us about the procedures to follow and to respect age old traditions.  There were many monks who were doing Prayer/Japa and we are not supposed to disturb them.  If any of the tourists is stranded and left alone, it will be taken seriously and he has to be with the group without disturbing the serenity of the place.
x)    It was very orderly and the explanation given about the religious traditions and practices of the monastery.  A very highly sanctified place with lot of good vibes and we could not resist seeking permission for sitting with closed eyes in a temple. The feeling was very reverential and we sat for a while after which we were promptly picked up by the group leader.  While coming down, we saw another small peak where there were some monks.  Out of curiosity we climbed upto see Guru padmasambhavas Tiger cave and a monk was pleasantly sitting with his Jap mala.  After getting his blessings, we came back to the main trail. The steps were very slippery and carefully, we got back.
y)    We came back by 4.30 pm and all of us very hungry.  The cafeteria was stil open for those who have climbed up and not returned.  After a proper meal, came down the hill and started back to Home stay at Paro.  It was now the wish of Chinmaya to have a  BHUTANESE HOT STONE BATH  which is needed to be booked in advance.   As told to us there can be nothing better than to soak your body in the traditional tub after the Taktsang Hike.  Similar to Japan, Bhutan offers a traditional form of bath called the hot stone bath.
Originally practiced for health or luxury purposes, a Bhutan hot stone bath takes a lot of time and effort to prepare. Particular stones are handpicked from the river which are heated up in the open fire until they turn blood red. The traditional wooden tub is filled with cold water and then the red hot stones are dipped in until the water warms up.  Herbs are added to the water and the experience can be compared to that of a natural hot tub minus the jets. The herbs used varied according to family and the recipe often was treated as a family secret, which was passed down from generation to generation.  It is a very natural experience that includes the elements of water, fire and earth.
z)    I would be failing if I don’t mention about the Home stay in Paro and our early morning visit to Kichu Lhakang.  This Hotel is fully managed by a Lady by name Psang Dolma with the help of another five girls who were very active and courteous.  They were in fact were waiting on the road to receive us and show the way to Hotel when we arrived at around 8 pm. Mrs. Psang Dolma w/o Gem Dorji, was a very curious lady and she enquired us thoroughly and we had a good interaction. 
The family was very pious and we were told that her husband goes to the nearby Lhakhang every day at 5.30 am in the morning.  They were also surprised to know that we are pure vegetarians and she virtually blessed us saying that they also don’t want to eat any meat at all.  They have regular prayers at home and the whole family looked very sober and affable.  When we told her about Taktsang hike, she said her brother is a monk there and further to the Taktsang monastery there is another place for trekkers where they can stay in the monastery surroundings.  She invited us to visit next time and assured to arrange for a special visit to the Monastery which is further up hill.  We were delighted. 
aa)  Previous day morning, we had gone for a walk to nearby Kichu Lhakhang which is said to be one of the oldest Lhakhangs of Bhuthan.  The early morning atmosphere was so serene and we could see a number of old ladies and daily walekers visiting Lhakhang and offering their silent prayers.  Most of the ladies were having a long bead and they were repeating a mantra as initiated by their monk.  We wanted to visit inside sanctum sanctoriumand took permission through Gem Dorji and went inside for a while.  It was delightful morning to offer prayers  on a Buddha Purnima day and we were deeply touched by the serenity of the place. 
bb) To our great surprise, when we came out, we saw an old Monk who was curious to know about us.  In his tit-bit Hindi, he enquired as to where we are from.  He was enquiring about distance and the amount of money spent by us to visit this Lhakhang.  When he heard about distance and price, he was virtually elated and blessed us that we have come a long way.  The warmth and affection were very clear in his eyes and he wouldn’t let us go.  Finally, he took two ten-rupee notes from his pocket and gave us to keep.  It was a simple gesture and so remarkable that he was touched by our visit from a long distance and our wish to pray on a Buddha Purnima day.   I carefully kept this into my valet, as a souvenir and we wished him farewell.  Such a simple act of giving ten rupees note made us think about the humane nature of Bhutanese people.  This place is truly blessed.
cc)  With a heavy heart and great peace/joy from within we returned back from Paro next day morning.  After reaching Phuentsholling, it was a different world of chaos and nuisance.  We virtually felt out of place and the difference in attitude of people and the state of affairs in this place was too much digest.  It was like coming from Heaven to visit Hell.  Out plans were like that to reach Gangtok same day and later come back via Darjeeling.  Virtually, I would say that our trip ended here at Phuentshilling itself and the balance was only for information sake. 


dd) There was nothing much to write except about some chilling experiences in Tsomog lake / Changu lake, a glacial lake in the East Sikkin district, 45 kms away from Gangtok.  Located at an elevation of 3,753 m, the lake remains frozen during the winter season it is actually a replica of the topography and terrain which we saw in Bhutan.   In Darjeeling we visited Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park is a 67.56-acre zoo in the town of Darjeeling in the Indian state of West Bengal. The zoo was opened in 1958, and an average elevation of 7,000 feet, is the largest high altitude zoo in India. Tea garden: Darjeeling tea is a tea grown in the Darjeeling district in West Bengal, India, and widely exported and known. It is processed as black, green, white and oolong tea. When properly brewed, it yields a thin-bodied, light-coloured infusion with a floral aroma.   
ee) The last part of the program was Tiger Hill which is located in Darjeeling, in the Indian State of West Bengal, and is the summit of Ghoom, the highest railway station in the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has a panoramic view of Mount Everest and Mount Kanchenjunga together. Very early in the morning, we went to Tiger Hill to catch a glimpse of sunrise over Kanchenjunga.  We could also see Batasia loop.  The Batasia Loop is a spiral railway created to lower the gradient of ascent of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway in Darjeeling district of West Bengal, India. At this point, the track spirals around over itself through a tunnel and over a hilltop. It was commissioned in 1919.   The Nathula pass and the Baba Mandir was really enjoyable, but the chaos and rush seen in Gangtok and Darjeeling, was not very palpable as we just descended from a very orderly nation and our minds did not really enjoy the Indian side of the very same Himalayas.
ff)   It was a revelation that with orderly and disciplined citizens whose beliefs system is deeply rooted in religion and righteousness, we could make lot of difference in our attitude towards fellow beings in particular and the nature in general.   Visit of Bhutan would remain fresh in our minds for a long time to come. We had such a serene experience in each and every place we visited in Bhutan.  There were no traffic lights and no honking in any part of Bhutan.  People are so kind and courteous in their behavior with fellow citizens. The differences in governance of a constitutional monarchy and institutional anarchy was very visible.  The reverence and importance given to the age-old culture & tradition and good governance by the rulers reflected in the High Happiness Index of the nation.  With a great hope that we would emulate the quality of life in this tiny nation, we returned home.



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