AMARNATH KI AMAR KAHAANI
It was a momentous decision to go to AMARNATH, at the instance of my
brother Venkat, whom we fondly call KITTY.
I had a deep regret that we could not do Manas Sarovar Yatra and in
spite of our repeated efforts, even Veenu could not make it alone. I was always wary of leaving the kids on
their own and avoided the trip. We even
planned for Veenus sojourn to Manas a couple of times which did not materialize
due to unknown reasons. She was
desperate that she couldn’t do it. This
deep routed regret made me instantly agree for the Amaranth Yatra proposed by
Kitty. Now that I was comfortable that the Kids have really grown to manage on
their own, I had no qualms of LEAVING them alone. Only that my Akka came to
take care of the family affairs. Now we
were all set for Amaranth. We left for
Bangalore on 8th July, 2017.
After working till late evening in the office, I was really bogged down
by the ensuing work pressure. I had
several sleepless nights convincing myself and my boss that my absence would
not affect work. There were certain tricky issues relating to bank assessments and
other urgent statutory work, which was holding me back.
2. We flew from Bangalore to Delhi and
thereafter to Srinagar. Due to change in
terminal in Delhi we had tough time in changing, or we thought so. It was quite easy to pick a bus and reach the
other terminal. We had plenty of time in
between to watch and observe several other Yatris in New Delhi airport. We were surprised to notice a number of
flights off to Srinagar (at least five to six in the first half of the day !!)
and the differently looking tourists – pilgrims everywhere. Already, the Yatra season was evident and
there were a number of pilgrims / look like pilgrims, including old couples,
group of odd men and women in a variety of costumes in this old Terminal which
looked like full of Yatris, only. This
Yatra is a life time dream for southerners but this appears to have been a
yearly affair for many Shiva devotees from Maharashtra and northern
states. The reverence towards Shiva and
the Yatra which is open only for 40 days in a year was evident in their attitude. It may be true that we only felt so and it
was all an illusory thought of pilgrim in the offing.
3. We
kept on watching a variety of people around, who looked like going to Amarnath only, or it
was only a delusion of a divine pilgrimage that we undertook after a long
time. The religious fervor was evident
from the time we landed in the Airport.
I used to tease Veenu that after 23 years, we are on a Honeymoon trip to
Srinagar and don’t think it is a Pilgrimage.
We never remember to have left the KIDS for such a long journey. I was excited that her childhood
disappointment in not seeing Srinagar (with parents) was going to be fulfilled
now and this was another reason for instantly agreeing for Amarnath Yatra!!
4. The
day when landed in Sringar, it was a Hartal day in remembrance of a so called
jihadi who laid down his life for the cause of Kashmir. The driver was waiting for us since afternoon
and we reached around 5 pm. When we
stepped out of airport, we could see empty roads on which children were playing
cricket !!!. Shops were closed, no
traffic on road and it was a bit scary to see a number of uniformed personnel
and – police present every 100 metres or so. Tense mood in the air slowly
gripped our mind. I said to myself that
we need to get used to such atmosphere for the rest of our period in
Srinagar. But we never knew that the
situation would be worse in a couple of days !!
5. We
were taken to a remote Hotel amidst the silent locality of Rajbagh as they
wanted to avoid City Hotels for Yatris. Warmly
welcomed by a Kudla man, Mr.Harsha from
Namana Travels. We were tired and immediately retreated to the room given. I mentioned that we did not have proper food
and would like to have early dinner. By
7.30, we were surprised with a sumptuous south Indian meal with Mangalore style
Sambar and after filling to the level of 100%, felt like should have a
walk. We went towards Jhelum Bridge to
see the beautifully lit walk way - built along the side of the bridge. We could hardly see any tourists here. The place was quite romantic and
pleasing. But, it was very weird and
weary due to absence of any tourists.
There was no movement of people except a few Daadi walahs. Veenu was slightly worried and sensed the
tense mood in atmosphere. She could not resist her scared mind and insisted
that we go back to our room. I was
trying to set her a proper mood after heavy dinner. It all started feeling quirky and I started
feeling bad for this beautiful place enamored in great fear and prejudice in
the minds of people. This was clearly an
indication of our future journey in this troubled place.
6. Early in the morning, we got up to see
the real Srinagar at around 5,30 am. I
purposely made a plan to “Shankaracharya
Temple” early in the morning, to ease out the impressions of late evening
walk on the banks of Jhelum river previous night. The plan worked wonders. After getting preliminary information from
hotel, we walked upto the bridge again and sought information from a decent guy
sitting after a brisk walk. He guided us well and before further query, saw a
Rikshaw wallah staring at us. He asked
the guy to endorse his rate to Shankara Temple. I told that fellow that we may take more
time in the temple and it should not be a problem. He agreed without any further
ado and took us to the temple in a whizz.
Driver was an interesting character, kept on talking in his anglicized
English cum Hindi. He looked like a
European and before we could conclude our friendly talk, we were near the CRPF
check post at the foot hills of Gopadri !!
7. Crossing
through the Dal lake area and took a turn towards Shankara Temple which is also
a prominent base of CRPF. I had ventured
into this place during my earlier visit with my batch mates. Only myself and my Namboodhiri friend were
dare enough to visit the temple on a tumultuous day in Srinagar while all
others kept themselves into the room !!. We just sneaked out of the hotel to get a
Rickshaw drive without even informing anyone in the group as they were afraid
of moving out of the Hotel. We were
however, determined to see this sacred temple. I started cherishing nostalgic
memories of my earlier visit with my good friend Narayanan Namboothiri from
Palakkad. I instantly remembered that we
had also visited Vaishnodevi due to his insistence during August, 2013.
8. This
ancient temple claimed to have been built by King Sandiman during 2629BC and
later renovated by King Gopadithya in 1368 BC on the hills presently known as
Gopadri Hills. It is also said that the temple was built / renovated in 2nd
century by the son of King Ashoka the Great.
The temple built on a octagonal platform supporting, easily approached
by approximately 200 to 240 steps. The main surviving shrine of the temple is a
circular cell providing a magnificent view of the valley. The temple situated
on the top of a detached ridge of an igneous rock and along with conical hill
rising behind the boulevard beside the Dal lake. The name of the temple and the hill has
undergone change with the historical moments and presently, tourists call it as
Shankaracharya temple. Recently the
temple dome has been repaired by Swamy Shivratnand Saraswathi at the request
of a Nepali Sadhu. The temple is maintained by J&K Dharmartha
Trust and well protected by CRPF Jawans.
9. Shiva
temple, popularly known as Shankaracharya temple in reverence to Adi
Shankaracharya who visited Kashmir about twelve centuries ago. It is believed that then Acharya of the Srinagar
University Swamy Abhinaugupta initiated Shankara into the “Shakthi cult”. We could
see the marble statue of Shankara installed by Shankaracharya of Dwarika Peeth
during 1961. Shankara being my most
revered Gnana Guru of the Vedic Philosophy of
Advaitha and the day was “Guru Poornima” and I would not let go of this
divine chance to be in a place where Shankara stayed for reviving Sanathana
Dharma and walked barefoot from Kanyakumari to Kashmir!!. I was deeply contemplating within myself and
kept on searching for the divine presence of the Great Master.
10. After
entering the sanctum sanctorum, we could see a few devotees in great ferverent
mood reciting many stotras and mantras. I could see a family man along with two
of his two kids reciting a number of Stotras on Rudra and we stood silently
enjoying the divine presence. I even saw him bowing in reverence and kissing
the Shiv linga. I could not desist
touching my forehead on the ice cold Shivalinga and felt ecstatic in that moment
of great touch. This was the moment of solitude which I badly needed for a long
time. The large oval shaped linga, made out of reddish black stone claimed to
have been brought from Narmada Valley in MP, is bit huge for the temple sanctum
sanatorium gave a majestic look to this tiny temple premises. We did not feel like leaving the place at all
and stood as long as we can inside the small place where it was getting crowded
by every minute. With great difficulty, we pulled ourselves out and did a half Pradakshina
of temple only to be welcomed by the pleasant breeze and we sat for a while on
the rear side. The scenic beauty of entire Srinagar on one side and the
majestic Dal Lake was visible from here.
We just stood still and decided to sit for a while for deeper
contemplation.
11. At
this moment, fortunately, I could see the same family man sitting along with
his wife and two kids reciting a long list of Slokas in prayer of Lord
Shiva. It was too soothing to hear this
North Indian accent of Sanskrit slokas and we kept on sitting beside them side
by side. I could hear, in between, the
two kids grumbling for a while to go.
Probably, they expected to see some places and have fun in Srinagar. But
the Father was very determined to complete the Slokas he has started. Finally, they left the place after which we
sat for reciting the Sukthas learnt from our Guru Shikaripura Krishnamurthy. It was very pleasant and meditative to recite
the Sukthas one by one starting with Ganesha Atharva Sheersha, Shivopasana Mantra,
Durga Suktha, Medha Suktha followed by Narayana Suktha and finally concluded by
Purusha Suktha. Myself and Veenu sat in
a deep contemplative mood enjoying the presence of the Great Masters of the
world, Adi Shankara and the Adi Yogi Shiva, popularly called as Adinatha by
Nath panthis.
12. The
graceful Gurupoornima day began with an auspicious morning visit to Shankara
Temple on Gopadri hills, left an indelible mark deep within and we came down
fully content from WITHIN, to spend a blissful day ahead of us. It was about 9.30 am in the morning and we
had spent about three hours in the Temple.
Without wasting much time, we decided to cover two more sacred
temples. Our rickshaw wallah has
already planned for us and it was only a matter of money to be given. I instructed him to take us to Saraswathi
Mandir and thereafter to Kheer Bhavani temple, so that we can reach back by
lunch time. We did not want to miss this
opportunity of continuing our ecstatic journey with more and more auspicious
places in this beautiful state of Kashmir.
13. Saraswathi mandir as it is
popularly called is situated about 6 kms from Srinagar city, on the western
side of Hari Parbath. I just spotted a
magnificent fort on a small hillock which was visible from Shankarcharya
temple, and I was told that it is Hariparbath built by Akbar the great named
after Raja Harisingh, the last of the Kings of Kashmir. We instantaneously decided to see the place,
the moment we saw this tiny hillock fort from the top of Shankaracharya temple
at a distance.
14. This
was actually Sharika devi mandir
on the western side of Hari parbath. After
climbing about 80 - 100 steps, we were frisked by Jawans who let us into the
temple. We were now in the divine
presence of Sharika Devi – goddess Jagadamba Sharika Bhagawathy who is regarded
as the presiding deity of Srinagar city, with 18 arms and sitting in Shri
Chakra, an emblem of cosmic energy pervading the universe. The hill is also
called as Pradyumna Peeth and there is a Swayambhu Shrichakra on the huge
vertical rock, being a Shakthisthal adored
by Adi Snhankara. The place is
very sacred for Kashmiri Pundits who regularly visit during special occasions,
particularly on Sharika maa birthday, called as Har Navum.
15. The
pundit who was keenly observing our interest came forward to show us the huge vertical
rock, symbolizing Sharika mata and showed us the Shri Chakra formation on this
rock. The goddess Sharika is
represented by a Swayabhu Shri chakra “Maha Yantra” consisting of Mystic
impressions and triangular patterns with a bindu at the centre. We were simply
amazed by the markings of Sri Chakra self glowing on the rock. He even showed other presiding deities on
the rock. They became more evident /
perceptible with the placement of beautiful flowers on the front portion of the
rock where we could perceive the shape of Shri Chakra. It was quite amazing to
see the symbol on this huge rock. He
also advised us to go through the literature on the side of temple, which gives
immense input into the importance and meaning of Shri Chakra, one of the most
powerful Yantras used in Shri Chakra Araadhane, by practitioners of Shakthi
Cult.
16. It
is said that the sacred Sri Chakra, commonly known as Sri Yantra, composed of
circles and Lotus petals, contain nine independent trikonas (triangles),
mystically drawn within the other. The
four triangles that point upwards represent SHIVA and the other five pointing
down wards represent Shakthi. Shiva
triangles are called SRI KANTHAS and Shakthi triangles Shiva Yuvathis or
Shakthi element. All these are quite
independent of the central bindu and are formed by the Mula prakrithi of Shiva
Bindu. The intersecting triangles
represent the play of creation, protection and absorption of the whole universe
by the divine force known as Sudha shakthi.
Sri yantra is the most magnificent composition of nine independent
trikonas, charged with the supreme occult significance. The trikonas intersect with each other to
form 43 big and small triangles into an inner circle on which a Lotus with
eight petal “Ashta dal” is written representing mystical creation. The another circle following this with
sixteen petalled lotus drawn on it, called as Shodasha dal, representing
sixteen kalas (facets) of moon.
17. The
whole set of triangles and the lotus petals are further triple concentric
circles or three fold girdles called TRIMEKHLA.
The whole diagram forming the mystical chakra fixed in a square with
triple parallel lines, having four openings or gates on its four cardinal
points make up the Devi’s mansion. In
the centre of the whole composition, lies the bindhu (Point) which, in fact, is
the mysterious matrix of the Maha Yantra. There is description of this Yantra given in Sloka 11 of Soundarya Lahari, composed
by Adi Shankaracharya. Sri Yantra is a very sacred symbol of the creation as
acknowledged by foreign authors who wrote on Indian philosophy. Sir John Woodroff, (Arthur Avalon) who say that the more
experienced view is that the mind is Shakthi which is a particular
manifestation of it. Practice of the
ritual transforms the mind and what is at first seen merely as an external
Yantra with lines, curves and petals, becomes a pure mental state in the
Sadhaka himself. He too is SHRI YANTRA and realizes himself as such. “ The nine
chakras represent nau dwaras (nine openings) in the body and considered as an
island of nine gems, Ajas, Sukra, Majja,
Med, Asthi, Mamsa, Roma, Tvak and Rudhir.
“The celebrated Yantra,” says John Woodroff, “represent the human body,
the whole Universe and the man, for what is in the former is in the latter and
vice versa, as also the Shiva Shakthi Swarupa or Atma. It is thus the symbol of Devi as she is in
her own form “Swarupa” and as she is in the form of Universe “Vishwathma”.
18. Completely
energized by the Sharika ma temple visit, we further decided to see Kheer
bhavani temple which is about 28 kms from Srinagar. It is in the Ganderbal district, which is
mostly terror ridden place. Auto wallah
has no hesitation in taking us there and assured that there is no problem. We had no doubt in our mind that nothing
would wrong and we proceeded further. By
this time, we were hungry and the word Kheer bhavaani, itself sufficient to
kindle more hunger!! By the way, they
serve Kheer (rice pudding) to all the devotees as Prasadam.
19. Kheer
bhavani a temple dedicated to Bhavaani, near village Tullamulla, constructed
over a holy spring. It is believed that
the Maharagnya devi, a satvic form of Durga, was pleased with Ravana and
appeared in Lanka who installed the idol of Maa Ragniya, a satvic form of
Goddess Durga. Later goddess was displeased with the vicious and licentious
life of Ravana and ordered Hanuman to bring her idol back to Kashmir and
install at Tulmul, where present temple is situated. It is also believed that
the colour of the spring changes and during any inauspicious period, it turns
into black, grey etc., Locals firmly
vouch for such changes during 1980s where there was a calamity.
20. Historically,
the name of the temple finds a place in Rajatarangini, an authentic chronicle
giving the history of ancient Kashmir. Rajatarangini
(River of Kings) is a historical chronicle of early India, particularly north
western India, written in Sanskrit by Kashmiri Brahman Kalhana in 1148 AD,
which is considered as the most authentic work of its kind. Kalhana was
born to a Kashmiri minister in the Kingdom of Harsha of Lohar Dynasty. References to Kings of Kashmir can be seen
and the details of Mauryan kings,
Budhist Kushan Kings, Kanishkas and upto Karkota dynasty of Nagas, who ruled
over the state of Kashmir, the chronicle describes in the form of verses
numbering more than 8000. The travelogue of Abul Fazl Ibn Mubarak in his book
Aini-Akbari mentions the area of Tula mula. Swami Rama and Swami Vivekananda
also visited this sacred place and greatly influenced by its serenity.
21. We
sat for a while in the temple where a number of devotees were singing maa
bhajans. I was tempted by the calls from
Langer, where the Yatris were invited for having food. Out of curiosity we went into the langer and
had some Prasad. We came out to sit below the huge Chinar trees all around the
temple. Here we met a Sadhu who was
sitting below a huge tree and I remembered him sitting in the same place during
our last visit also. After taking his blessings, we sat silently for quite a
while as the first half day of our temple visit has come to an end and we had
to rush back to the hotel, where Kitty family was waiting. We came back through the old city full of
silent - turbulence and a number of anti India slogans on the way. It was a mixed feeling of divinity and sadness
arising out of local situation which kept us harping on the historical reasons,
from one extreme to another, intermittently drawing us back to the local
politics.
22. Rest
of the day, was quite peaceful and we just relaxed in the company of Sonaps and
family. As part of the itinery, we had
to again visit places –we had already seen.
The first visit being, Shankaracharya temple again and the only
difference is that it was in the scorching sun.
The whole scenerio was quite different from the morning visit. It was the same day and still, the difference
was huge. The paradox of visiting a
temple in the afternoon as against the auspicious morning, was easily felt. This time, it was only tourists visiting and
not the devotees!! We however, enjoyed
the Company of Kitty and family and went ahead towards other places.
23. Srinagar
is full of charming gardens and particularly some very beautiful ones, in the
back drop of huge mountains. Cheshma sha hi, built during moghul period, being
one such marvelous place wherein you find cold springs with water flowing down,
quenching your thirst even in hot summer.
We could not get out of the cold springs and drank chilled water to fill
the stomach. We enjoyed the chilled
water and drank full stomach. Next was
Nishath bagh which is a very beautiful garden gave us the required relaxation with
lush green grass to lie down and walk a bit. We could see Sonu in Kashmir dress and it was
delightful. Feeling, contended with the
journey whole day, came back to hotel for having a sumptuous south Indian
meal.
25. Any
visit to Kashmir valley is incomplete, if you do not see the beautiful
outskirts like Pahalgam, Gulmarg, Sonamarg and the less known Doodh patri. Its
even better, if you can stay over night in any of these places to get a feeling
of the place, instead of coming back same day.
Gulmarg is known for its Gondola in which you are taken to the top of
mountains in a Cable Car and the scenic beauty is amazing. The Sona marg, Doodh patri are places where
you can ride on ponies to climb mountains and relax for the whole day. Pahalgam is on the way to amarnath and
another picturesque place in Kashmir valley.
There is a Mini Switzerland in this place and during cold season,
Pahalgamlooks far more beautiful than Switzerland, with snow falling and ice
frozen upto 20 feet !! Lots of adventure sports possible in these places. As the Gondola was not in operation, we
skipped Gumarg and planned for an outing to Doodhpatri. This is less known place which is still
under development as a tourist destination.
26. The
moment we landed in Doodpatri, we were surrounded by a number of young Ghode
walas who were not leaving us to move further.
Some how, we got out and started trekking on the mountains. It was a good idea to take a guide for showing
us the way and one of the ghode happily agreed to come. This was a prelude to the climb on
mountains for Amarnath Yatra. I
recollected my earlier tryst with mountains with my batch mates in this
place. We climbed from one side and came
out through the valley crossing the river passing through the valley. Basically, we climbed one mountain and got
down to the other through a river cross.
It was a great experience to trek under the huge pine trees and it was a
Photogenic trek, making us click every other minute. We came back around 4 pm in the evening after
about four hours of trek, finished the packed lunch on the side ways of
mountain valley. It was so refreshing to
sit facing a huge peak and each our regular food “Chitranna” packed with a
salad – raitha. Next day was the big day
for starting our Amarnath Yatra,
the final Yatra. And we did not want to get tired further and returned to
Srinagar for our usual dinner and rest
in the hotel.
27. While,
we were being briefed about Yatra itinery to be followed from tomorrow, I got
an unusual call. It was our Mantra Patha
Satsang Guru – Shri Shikaripura Krishnamurthy.
His voice was tense and I was told that there was an attack on Yatris at
Anantnag and there is news everywhere. Tense
moments started and I informed the tour operator. He was taken aback and started checking facts
from his own sources. We were told that
the situation might become normal and as our Helicopter tickets booked for 11th
from Baltal, we can go upto Baltal and see what can be done. There was no news channel or internet, as
they got blocked immediately after trouble erupted in Kashmir Valley. We were
told, a Yatri vehicle was attacked in Anantnag district and few people got
killed. It was cross firing or attack by
extremists, was not known.
28. We
had some senior citizens and retired officials in our group. Their determination to visit Amarnath was
amazing. I would say, that at one point
of time, we were planning to come back to Srinagar and these ladies did not
give up. The whole programme got fixed
very interestingly. After packing lunch
in the morning, we left early towards Baltal which is about three hours drive
from Srinagar. We had to cross Ganderbal
which is known for disturbance and terrorist activities. After reaching Sona
marg, we realized the problem is worse.
Huge number of military convoy vehicles seen at Sonamarg. We some how reached the helipad base and
waited for our turn. They were not
allowing us on first come first serve basis and we were made to wait. Kitty and family went earlier but they had to
wait for long. Again, the senior ladies
took some initiative and their request gave us special permission to enter the
place and procedures for take off started.
From 11 am in the morning till 4.30 pm we were waiting for Helicopter
and the climate got worse. Two of the
ladies went ahead in the Helicopter and one batch went up in the air and came
back. Myself and Veenu went upto helipad and returned to the base as the
services got cancelled due to poor visibility.
In another 10 to 15 minutes, we could have reached Pachatarini, from
where, we were planning to trek upto Amarnath.
It would have been 6 + 6 kms up and down from this place.
29. We
did not know what to do. We were told
that we can come back tomorrow and wait in the que again. There was no guarantee that we will be sent
first. Again the weather would not improve and waiting would not help. Sonu had to come back after two days and we
could not afford endless wait in Baltal base camp for the weather to improve. Fully disappointed with the turn of events, we
came out after cancelling the tickets. After coming outside, there was no other
way but to come back to Srinagar. One
possibility was to stay back in Baltal – tent and go by Palki next morning. We were not sure of anything at this
stage. We started back towards sona marg
and ironically, the police would not leave us at this hour. In fact our vehicle crossed across towards
Baltal and was sent back. It was only
6.15 pm evening. We would be left only
next day morning. We could not go back we could not go forward. Stuck badly, we kept on planning / thinking,
as to what to do. The brainstorming
session was going on in the other vehicle with senior citizens who
wouldn’t give up. These brave ladies went ahead and met the
Daroga with a ferverent request to let us go to Baltal for next day trip. We also joined them and I had to show my card
requesting for some leniency. Finally,
we were allowed to go to Baltal for a night stay in the tent and the first
battle was with the nature and the second was with our own system which
functions without any rhyme or reason.
30. After
reaching Baltal, we hired tents for the night stay and arrangements made for
next day morning Palki. Seeing weather
conditions, we gave up the idea of trekking as it would be too difficult to
climb from this side. It would have
been possible from Pahalgam side and Baltal route is only by helicopter and
steep trek. Early morning, got up at
around 2 am and we were in selected Palkis by3.30 am. It was a long queue at the gate and Veenu became
sick at this final stage just before getting into the final gate and start of
Palki journey. She kept on weeping and
felt guilty that she had to suffer in this auspicious journey. I had tough time consoling her and it was
only natural turn of events over which we had no control. As usual all our team mates had left, and we
started afresh. After crossing the gate,
we had to find our Palki walas and with great difficulty I could locate
Veenu. I came back for my Palki walah
who was missing and somehow got him after a great effort. Seeing their plight,
I started walking on difficult stretches and this was probably the first
mistake. Showing goodness or courtesy was seen as a matter of weakness in
asserting.
31. In
the narrow stretch, palki walas, ghode walas and trekkers had to go in three
lines and sometimes, opposite traffic would push us to the side. Due to
drizzling, the way was completely slushy with lots of slippery pavements. It was terribly difficult even to walk
across, leave alone taking some one on your Palki. I felt bad for those four chaps who were
carrying this body. I felt ashamed and
decided that I would never hire humans for carrying this body. Its as good as being dead and carried by someone,
at least you have no control over events at that stage. This was quite symbolic of the Yatra to
Amarnath, the final destination which is equally uncertain !! Difference being, you are alive but being
carried on a Dolly by four persons.
32. We
had to stop quite a number of times and except once, I could not see where
Veenu is. The weather was bad and it
was very cold at certain times, there was no way to go back or forward on our
own. It all depended on our Palkiwalas
who had taken the task of taking this body to Amarnath. Each one of us were
alone in some sense and it was a divine pilgrim of life time. Shockingly, I saw a dead body being carried
down from Amarnath. Within a short
time, another one followed making a weary thought to come in the mind. Are we going back alive??? Both of us or one of us required
atleast. I was able to let go of all
the thoughts and just started watching the majestic heights of mountain, felt
better doing so.
33. After
a strenuous climb from 5.30 in the
morning till 1.30, reached the peak.
Felt thrilled that we made it, but not sure whether all of us have
reached. We had to climb a few steps to
see Amarnath Gupha. (Cave) It was a
huge cave in which there was a formation of Lingam due to solidification of
ice. My scientific mind started telling
that it is a natural phenomenon found in several places where the flowing water
froze to form Linga. Ajay had told about such instances in Switzerland, having
seen a few of them. It is a simple natural
phenomenon which is turned into cause of a divine pilgrimage. What a way to see the nature’s beauty –
philosophically !!! It was purely an adventure Pilgrimage Yatra
for all those ferverent Bhakthas of Lord Shiva. Amazing are the ways of our ancestors who
made every possible effort to elevate us through natural means. We have cluttered our minds so much so as not
to understand them and blindly following all kinds of rituals without properly
knowing their essence.
34. Finally,
the Yatra was over from one side and it was time to climb down. It was getting late and the climate was
getting worse each minute. Palkiwalas were aware of the risk involved and
started running down. I had to climb
down and walked few kms in between to speed up the journey. However, at some places, it was better to sit
in Palki as they were too fast on slushy path. We took some rest in between and
one of the palkiwalas disappeared with my bag without giving any notice. I had to walk for another two kms as there were
only three to carry me !!. I had to
scare them a lot so that I get my bag back.
Their intentions did not appear to be genuine. They kept on pleading for not complaining to
police and we finally reached the base.
35. First
thing to do was to enquire about Veenu.
I did not get confirmation about her arrival and rushed to the tent and
my heart started beating again with joy when I heard her voice from the
tent. Finally, all of us were back on
our own legs and it was over by stroke of 6 pm. We went for a small stoll and came back
after having some food in the Langer. I
had to buy some clothes as my bag was still missing and entire clothing was
wet. Each one of us had different
experiences on the way and probably it was born out of our Karmas and planned
as per our nature. Every experience in life
appears to be, a reaction or result, depending on our tendencies which we call
Karma, as we do not know it well. Even
if do not know it well, its ok if we can face it with a positive bent of mind,
which we could very well do in the entire Yatra. We have to flow according to the
circumstances still keeping with a determined mind towards the goal in our
mind.
36. Now
that we had achieved what we destined to achieve, we were feeling very light and
relaxed, came back to Srinagar. Last leg of our trip had some very interesting
places on the way to Pahalgam like, Marthanda Surya Temple, Anantha Padmanabha
swamy temple, in Anant nag, Mamalapur Shiva temple in Pahalgaon village are
very mystique. Pahalgam –probably ,
behel gaon, is said to be the place where Shiva Leaves Nandi and go
further. Chandanwadi is another place
where Chandra leaves Shiva’s entourage.
In Panchatarani, the pancha maha bhuthas are said to be left before
reaching Amarnath alongwith Parvathy, to reveal the ultimate secret of being
Amar. These temples are very ancient and you can see
their mention in our Puranas. The
ancient temple of Mamal (ancient
Mamalka) on the river bank of Lidder pertain to 11th century built
by Jayasinha and has a mention in Rajatarangini.
37. The
Marthanda Sun temple originally believed to have been built by Pandavas and
later renovated in 8th century by Lalitaditya Mukta Pida of Karkota
dynasty. This was originally built on
top of a plateau from where one can view whole of Kashmir valley. It was said to be an excellent specimen of Kashmiri
architecture which blended Gandharan, Gupta, Chinese , Roman, Syrian and Greek
forms of architecture. An architectural
wonder of those days, worth exploring even now. In the present Marthanda temple (for visitors)
you could still see a very unique
variety of fish in the ponds. There is
a sense of eerie in these places which could be very nostalgic for a Scholar
who knows about practices in Vedic ages.
All these are the reminiscent of the ancient Vedic culture at its peak
in this part of the Country. The state
of Kashmir is claimed to be the Tapo bhumi of Kashyapa rishi. Great kings ruled this place over a period
of time and the ancient Indian culture was at its peak in this place of
Aryavartha. Our total ignorance about
all such sacred places is a great shame and cause of concern.
38. Kashmir
was a seat of learning and particularly, Sanskrit language had an evolving effect
on this region. It is said that the
scholars of this region were sent as Ambassadors of great Kings of Bharat
varsha, like Ashoka the Great and many great kings of Gupta dynasty. Being very learned, they would achieve
diplomacy and be very successful wherever they go. As already seen Kalhana’s Rajatarangini, a historical Sanskrit chronicle of those days,
there is a mind blowing account of Kings
of Kashmir. Such a beautiful place on
earth, culturally vibrant and a seat of learning once upon a time, fully
endowed with nature’s bounty, pristine and pure forest mountains. It has become a tense place due to wretched
politics of religion and international politicking with great apathy towards
human beings.
39. It
all looks like vested interest in keeping the issues alive and no immediate political
solution appears in the offing. Wherever
we go, the people were agitated and it was difficult to convince them that
India is their best bet. They had
serious doubts and animosity about political set up, army and the police
establishment. Their ignorance about the reasons for their misery was
appalling. They thought that everything
in administration is against their interest, without realizing that they can
effectively improve the situation with a positive bent of mind. Lack of Trust appears to be the key
problem. Felt bad for those kids seen on
the way. I even showed the photograph
of Gandhi in the currency note, to many such lads who came to beg for some
money. Many of them were not aware of
Mahatma who gave us freedom on a platter, only to be spoiled as we do not know
the value of it. The kids were seeing
this piece of paper which could get them some food and I used this moment of
attraction. I asked them whether they
know this man on Currency note and told about his greatness. I had to literally lure them to be truthful
and honest in life, so that one day their photo will be on Currency !! I was only trying to tell them to study well
and be honest like Mahathma Gandhi to achieve something in life. I am not sure as to how much impact it had on
those tiny minds, but surely it was satisfying my inner self.
40. Over
all the trip was well organized and only the circumstances kept on changing
every day. The uncertainties of life
were symbolic in our Amarnath Yatra. We
remembered the Kids at every point of time and it was hard to leave the kids
and go all alone. Since Kitty was
there, we played like kids and acted like ones also. We had nostalgic memories of our childhood days
during the entire journey and enjoyed Sonaps company. We enjoyed racing on green fields on mini
Switzerland, riding horseback on the mountains of Pahalgam, Shikara rides and house boat stay on Dal Lake. The Amarnath was main course and the rest was
a topping to enjoy. A memorable Yatra of
life time to be cherished for a long time to come, thanks to Kitty for his
great enthusiasm, we would not have ventured to plan for this divine adventure
Yatra.
Amarnath
ki Jai ho.
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